On Sunday 22 November 2015 01:48:10 Erik Christiansen wrote: > On 21.11.15 14:09, Gene Heskett wrote: > > I have one of those MC's from Lowes, but as pin meters go it doesn't > > have a solid reading if the MC is below around 5.2%. So despite all > > the evidence that its not quite wringing wet, it sure isn't acting > > dry except for the surface. > > Ah, you have a good one. My cheapie only goes down to 6%, and I > wouldn't trust it as more than an approximate indicator. But then, I'd > only dry timber to 5-6% if it were to be used in an airconditioned > environment. For normal domestic use, drying to around 12%, then > stabilising in a good approximation of the final use conditions (as I > figure you're doing - with dramatic results) is what I'm more used to. > > If the board ends are uncoated, they'll dry ten times faster than the > middle, rather like you're finding with the surface. I've found 8% > higher MC in the middle, c.f. the surface, on partly dried 2" thick > wood. > > Rather than wreck the probes by banging them in, I prefer to drill a > couple of good sized holes halfway through, then lightly prod the > bottom of them, or just split an offcut with a chisel. > > Since the boards appear to be way wetter than they'll ever be in later > use, a lot of expansion room in the breadboard slot doesn't seem to be > called for - they're only going to shrink from the status quo. My > worry would be the width of the slot tracking board tenon thickness as > everything shrinks. (It's nicest when breadboard ends don't rattle.) > Yup. With the warp and wind, I don't think thats going to be an embarrassing problem.
So once I figure out how to drill the slot on thru, I expect I should install the screws toward the outside end of the slot. I have some leftover Mahogany I got from a different source that I made the first one out of. Somewhat darker now as its like cherry, darkens with light exposure and a heck of a lot harder than this stuff. I haven't weighed it but I get the impression its denser than this is, its positively fluffy in places. Is that typical of "african mahogany"? Surface hardness is decent once a couple coats of teak oil have been wiped on sloppy wet, then wiped dry 15-20 minutes later then let cure for 24+ hours. The teak oil seems to penetrate better than Sam's Stuff. > Best of luck. (As I figure the plan is to plough on, rather than stop > to (kiln) dry the wood first - if it's even dry enough to start that.) Yes, at the pace I can manage, which is 4 or 5 hours a day, not counting the coding sessions in the middle of the night. As for the thru hole drill, to finish boring thru the width the breadboards, how about a 1/8" diameter dremel diamond bit, bought slowly into the gullet of a 3/16 bit at a 6 or 7 degree tilt for heel clearance so I wind up with a bit that has an almost spur cutter on the outside edge. Bring the dremel cutter into the end of it, centered in the middle of that side, back it away once that side is done, rotate the bit 180 degrees and match the other sides cutting edge, leaving a spur point thats actually a few thou shorter that the outer edge? I presume that 3/16" carbide mills might be available, but I'd need one with at least 2.5" of stickout. That seems like it could be made from pure un-obtainium unless I have been looking at the wrong catalogs. Even then, the flex as it dulls would seem to be something to fudge into the gcode. Thanks Erik. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
