On Sunday 22 November 2015 05:45:22 Erik Christiansen wrote: > On 22.11.15 02:54, Gene Heskett wrote: > > On Sunday 22 November 2015 01:48:10 Erik Christiansen wrote: > > > Since the boards appear to be way wetter than they'll ever be in > > > later use, a lot of expansion room in the breadboard slot doesn't > > > seem to be called for - they're only going to shrink from the > > > status quo. My worry would be the width of the slot tracking board > > > tenon thickness as everything shrinks. (It's nicest when > > > breadboard ends don't rattle.) > > > > Yup. With the warp and wind, I don't think thats going to be an > > embarrassing problem. > > <Chortle> It's that positive attitide which keeps things moving > forward, I guess. :-) > > > So once I figure out how to drill the slot on thru, I expect I > > should install the screws toward the outside end of the slot. > > That seems like a sound plan. Those outer-end screws then make best > use of the slots, and don't risk hitting the inner end. > > ... > > > I presume that 3/16" carbide mills might be available, but I'd need > > one with at least 2.5" of stickout. That seems like it could be > > made from pure un-obtainium unless I have been looking at the wrong > > catalogs. > > A quick glance at fleabay suggests that vendors think an _overall_ > length of 2.5" is "long length", so that plus enough to fill the > collet is a bit rarer. Here's a 1/4" "extended reach" tool 4" long:
That would be too big a hole. The screws in hand are 4" treated deck screws with bugle heads, so they'll have a couple washers fitted under the heads so they'll present a flat face against the bottom of the counterbore, and well below the square/rectangle machined in the same operation, nominally 100 thou deep which will have the ebony plugs fitted. I made these lid end plugs by hand the first time, and wound up planing them flush, which wasn't what I had intended artistically. All the rest of the plugs were sliced out of a thin sheet, then dropped into a micarta holder carved by the same code and a roundover bit made the "pillow" top. But if it didn't fit snug enough, the roundover bit caught it and probably destroyed 20% of them. So, yet to be designed is a jig with a clamp screw to drive it together like a vise. And unlike the first copy, where there were only two machine made sizes to deal with, 3/8" square and 1/2" square, I'll now have a 3rd width, and an assortment of lengths. I'll saw the micarta jig in two, and make a clamp to pinch it and hold the chips better so that handles the 2 original square sizes. On these new sizes, rather than going around the top, I'm inclined to stand them on edge where I can get a good grip on the individual chip. That will be a ton of fiddling, 4 clamp ups to do each one. A huge time sink. Each upper box will need 44 of the 1/2" versions, each base will need a dozen of the 3/8" versions, and these lids will need a dozen about 7/16" wide, ranging from square to the slot lengths longer. But I'll check the free length of the jig I have, it might be possible to just machine a long pocket between the two in it now and then slice it in 2 thru the center of all 3 so it could hold all sizes. Amazing what I can think of mornings even before the coffee kicks in, or has it, 2/3rds of a cup of yesterdays leftovers have been input & I hear my lady putzing with the microwave so I expect the pot is officially empty. :) Sometimes I need to get away from the forest before I can see the trees. I also have more of that micarta... Plus the 4 long 1/4" thick ones that couple the outside edges of the lids with the ends of the breadboards. I hope I have enough ebony. That stuff isn't gold plated, but close, a 2x2x12" stick of it, very rough cut on a wood mizer, was over $60 in a cardboard sleeve on my front deck. So I've been slicing it off in sheets about .2" thick, then using the toy mill to cut out the individual buttons. With a 1/16" carbide mill so as not to waste anymore of it than I have to. Any way I do it is tedious, thats for sure. I tried a 1/32 mill but it was both fragile, and springy, not giving the precise size. Those "lid-stay" hinges from Rockler aren't free either, $60 a pair, need 3 per chest. [...] > Dunno about the wood fluffiness. Just hope it's not due to it being > sapwood (softer and less durable) I'm sure some of this is. > or "reaction wood", i.e. wood which > grew under mechanical stress, and which will warp once machined. (That > can be fluffy too.) Heck, in this case it could just be a species > thing, since most of us haven't seen it before. > > Must try to follow your example, and replenish my supply of round > tuits. I'm a begger so if you come across a decent pattern I can plagerise, I've promised several people I'd make them one. I have a stock of 1" wide alu strap just waiting for that. And they keep nudging my elbow about them. ;-) Most of the patterns I've come across are too busy, and if my toy mill was precise enough, would take an hour+ a side to do. Sigh... > Erik > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >-------- _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
