At 9/6/2020 10:04 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
Greetings all the 3d printer people hiding in the bushes;
I have found the best material to make flexgears out of, TEPG.
But I've a problem, an ender3 won't go above 260C for nozzle temp, and
that is restricting the build speed to around 30" max, because it can't
melt the plastic fast enough to make a solid build while moving faster.
Out of the parts for this version of a harmonic drivem I'd like to make
the body cap with the motor mounted to it, and the bearing carrier
because that would allow full current to the motor, and the flexgear out
of TEPG because of its flexing without failure ability. The rest of it
can be PLA as those parts don't have the motor heat telegraphed into
them.
So I'm now looking for info on an affordable printer that can run the bed
at 80c, and the nozzle at 275 to 280C. This ender3 pro electronically
limits at 260C, and takes a long time for the bed to hit 70C. And there
are advisories about not going above 240 with the OEM bowden tube. And
I have a piece in the hot end that I'll replace with the blue capricorn
between this print and the next, because I am running at the 260C limit,
and 70C bed just to get bed adhesion.
Is there such a beast more suitable for TEPG?
Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
Long time lurker out here that does some PETG
(which I think is what you mean?) and my advice
would be to do two things to your printer.
1. Replace the hot end with a Micro-Swiss all
metal hot end. This will allow much higher temps,
but of course you will need to mod the firmware to allow this.
2. Insulate the underside of your bed. On one of
my printers, the factory installation would
struggle to get to 65°C. I insulated with some
ceramic blanket gotten off our favorite auction
site and it will verifiably get to 123°C!
This will be a cheaper than buying a new printer.
There is also talk about loosing magnetism in the
bed if you elevate the temp much, but I am
running mine at 85° on an Ender 5 with no problems.
HTH
Country
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