Quite a lot of the drive is still in perfect shape. That flex cup part is toast.
What you can do is try and 3D print a new flex cup but do NOT repeat the #1 mistake that almost everyone does. They try and duplicate a metal design but use plastic. That approach is doomed to fail. A plastic part will have 10X greater volume of materials. Rather than a "flex-CUP" try a "flex-HOCKEY PUCK" Maybe it looks like a metal disk with a ribbed tire on it. I read where Gene tried many times to print one of these, that failed because the designer thought he was designing with metal. I really think a nylon tire over some TPU over a rigid metal wheel might work. The final result is not the same as metal part will always have a better strength to volume ratio and better cooing and work at a higher speed. But maybe you can get 30% of the torque from a plastic replacement part. I've been slowly making machine tool parts from PLA and the results are not bad. The trick is to NOT pretend that PLA is cast iron. On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 9:28 AM andy pugh <bodge...@gmail.com> wrote: > I bought an FHA-17C actuator from eBay. It was cheaper than normal, > for parts or not working. > It clearly had the cables cut off, so I decided to gamble. > > It turns out that things were worse than I hoped. > > https://photos.app.goo.gl/p3SL2Bwv2b9yd5XJ9 > > I am seriously considering trying to make a new flexspline. I mean, > how hard can it be? > > -- > atp > "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is > designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and > lunatics." > — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912 > > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users > -- Chris Albertson Redondo Beach, California _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
