Honestly, I think NoAlOX is Slick 50 all over again until I see some data.
 I would love to see data.

When you torque properly into aluminum you are getting airtight contact
with the pure aluminum of the threads by the sliding nature of the contact.
 It might be interesting to see how much resistance is really there across
the joint of the strap to the terminal.  My guess is it is really low as
there is a lot of area.  I am not convinced that sanding is useful -
especially if it is not dead flat  when you get done.  The contact is only
between asperities of the two surfaces no matter what you do and all that
finish work is unlikely to help.  You do not expose and un-oxidized
aluminum as it instantly reoxidizes when air touches it.  I do mean
instantly.  it is a fools errand and the machined surface if it is
undamaged is better.

I say throw away the lock washers, keep the flat ones and torque them to
spec with what you have.  If the threads are dry when you put it together
there will be no trouble.  You can smear some grease around if you want a
small measure of extra moisture resistance.  If you have to put something
on the threads and between the flat surfaces of contacts conductive grease
should be fine.  If NoAlOx is your preference then go for it. I would
probably go with a high conductivity heat transfer paste (not dielectric).
  But, I think clean and dry is best.


On Tue, Jan 7, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Evan Tuer <evan.t...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Oops, I've not done this once in 50k miles!  I used the Calb-supplied
> hardware, which was stainless hex bolts, stainless washers and what looked
> like spring steel lock washers.  Can't get NoAlOx here so didn't use it..
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:49 PM, Bill Dube <billd...@killacycle.com> wrote:
>
> > You have to sand the terminals and immediately apply NoAlOx, just like
> > Mark says. A thin layer is best as a thick layer will slowly ooze out and
> > the terminal will become loose.
> >
> > Re torquing is needed, but probably not every 10k miles. Likely just the
> > first 5k to 10k and then maybe at 30k or 40k.
> >
> > Bellville washers help.
> > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
> >
> > Bill D.
> >
> >
> > On 1/6/2014 7:22 AM, Michael Ross wrote:
> >
> >> I recently took apart a nice little OEM battery pack and every terminal
> on
> >> it was barely hand tight.  I reassembled with SS socket head screws
> >> instead
> >> of the Phillips screws, and torqued the 5mm bolts to spec.  All you need
> >> to
> >> do is torque them right and they will not loosen.  Do not use lock
> washers
> >> as they compromise the clamping force. If you look at bolted joints on
> >> high
> >> quality equipment you will find properly designed joints with no
> >> lubrication or thread-locker - they just torque the right.  I worked for
> >> Caterpillar and can vouch for their practices - needed to survive the
> >> worst
> >> vibration environments imaginable.  My Toyota cars over the last 30
> years
> >> are all produced this way.  I don't use conductive grease, I just go
> with
> >> clean and tight.
> >>
> >> For reference:
> >>
> >> 1 N m = 8.8in lb = 0.74bft lb
> >>
> >> I tightened the 5's to 35 in lb (4 Nm).
> >>
> >> Unfortunately, there are a lot of units for measuring torque.   Inch
> >> pounds
> >> are best for the small wrenches we have in the US.
> >>
> >> My joints were the terminals of 32120 cells, SS M5 screws, with nickel
> >> plated copper straps, and stainless steel flat washers (lock washers
> >> thrown
> >> away).  I am not sure what the terminal with the tapped threads is made
> >> from.  It is s tamped and formed part, maybe SS, but could be a plated
> >> brass or copper...
> >>
> >> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 7:26 AM, Mark Hanson <marke.han...@hotmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>  Hi Folk's,
> >>> last night a overvoltage battery balancer #22 shut down the charger at
> >>> 4.0V.  At first I thought it was a bad OV balancer detector but after
> >>> replacing the circuit it still did it so I put a scope across the
> battery
> >>> cell and noticed the charging pulsed waveform going from 3.3V to 4.0V
> 60
> >>> hz
> >>> when adjacent cells were fairly solid (signifying a high impedance
> >>> condition).  I thought I had a bad cell but after sanding under the
> >>> copper
> >>> strap & adding 3M dielectric grease & torquing back down, it charged
> >>> perfectly with no faults, back to low impedance.  I found a few other
> >>> battery terminal bolts not tight after 20k miles (even with sealing
> paint
> >>> on terminal bolts CALB 130).  So it's best to tighten terminal bolts on
> >>> lithiums every 10k miles it seams.  I used to tighten terminal bolts on
> >>> old
> >>> lead GC batteries every 500 miles but didn't think it was necessary
> with
> >>> lithiums but apparently they need it as well just less often.
> >>> Best Regards,mark
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