Interesting. I did use some vaseline ("petroleum jelly") on the flat
surfaces. The specified torque seemed way too low, it was about the lowest
setting on my smallest torque wrench, so I tightened it to what I thought
was reasonable, which ended up about 10x the specified torque. Maybe just
a typo on the data sheet.
On Tue, Jan 7, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Michael Ross <michael.e.r...@gmail.com>wrote:
> Honestly, I think NoAlOX is Slick 50 all over again until I see some data.
> I would love to see data.
>
> When you torque properly into aluminum you are getting airtight contact
> with the pure aluminum of the threads by the sliding nature of the contact.
> It might be interesting to see how much resistance is really there across
> the joint of the strap to the terminal. My guess is it is really low as
> there is a lot of area. I am not convinced that sanding is useful -
> especially if it is not dead flat when you get done. The contact is only
> between asperities of the two surfaces no matter what you do and all that
> finish work is unlikely to help. You do not expose and un-oxidized
> aluminum as it instantly reoxidizes when air touches it. I do mean
> instantly. it is a fools errand and the machined surface if it is
> undamaged is better.
>
> I say throw away the lock washers, keep the flat ones and torque them to
> spec with what you have. If the threads are dry when you put it together
> there will be no trouble. You can smear some grease around if you want a
> small measure of extra moisture resistance. If you have to put something
> on the threads and between the flat surfaces of contacts conductive grease
> should be fine. If NoAlOx is your preference then go for it. I would
> probably go with a high conductivity heat transfer paste (not dielectric).
> But, I think clean and dry is best.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 7, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Evan Tuer <evan.t...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Oops, I've not done this once in 50k miles! I used the Calb-supplied
> > hardware, which was stainless hex bolts, stainless washers and what
> looked
> > like spring steel lock washers. Can't get NoAlOx here so didn't use it..
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:49 PM, Bill Dube <billd...@killacycle.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > You have to sand the terminals and immediately apply NoAlOx, just like
> > > Mark says. A thin layer is best as a thick layer will slowly ooze out
> and
> > > the terminal will become loose.
> > >
> > > Re torquing is needed, but probably not every 10k miles. Likely just
> the
> > > first 5k to 10k and then maybe at 30k or 40k.
> > >
> > > Bellville washers help.
> > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
> > >
> > > Bill D.
> > >
> > >
> > > On 1/6/2014 7:22 AM, Michael Ross wrote:
> > >
> > >> I recently took apart a nice little OEM battery pack and every
> terminal
> > on
> > >> it was barely hand tight. I reassembled with SS socket head screws
> > >> instead
> > >> of the Phillips screws, and torqued the 5mm bolts to spec. All you
> need
> > >> to
> > >> do is torque them right and they will not loosen. Do not use lock
> > washers
> > >> as they compromise the clamping force. If you look at bolted joints on
> > >> high
> > >> quality equipment you will find properly designed joints with no
> > >> lubrication or thread-locker - they just torque the right. I worked
> for
> > >> Caterpillar and can vouch for their practices - needed to survive the
> > >> worst
> > >> vibration environments imaginable. My Toyota cars over the last 30
> > years
> > >> are all produced this way. I don't use conductive grease, I just go
> > with
> > >> clean and tight.
> > >>
> > >> For reference:
> > >>
> > >> 1 N m = 8.8in lb = 0.74bft lb
> > >>
> > >> I tightened the 5's to 35 in lb (4 Nm).
> > >>
> > >> Unfortunately, there are a lot of units for measuring torque. Inch
> > >> pounds
> > >> are best for the small wrenches we have in the US.
> > >>
> > >> My joints were the terminals of 32120 cells, SS M5 screws, with nickel
> > >> plated copper straps, and stainless steel flat washers (lock washers
> > >> thrown
> > >> away). I am not sure what the terminal with the tapped threads is
> made
> > >> from. It is s tamped and formed part, maybe SS, but could be a plated
> > >> brass or copper...
> > >>
> > >> On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 7:26 AM, Mark Hanson <marke.han...@hotmail.com
> >
> > >> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Hi Folk's,
> > >>> last night a overvoltage battery balancer #22 shut down the charger
> at
> > >>> 4.0V. At first I thought it was a bad OV balancer detector but after
> > >>> replacing the circuit it still did it so I put a scope across the
> > battery
> > >>> cell and noticed the charging pulsed waveform going from 3.3V to 4.0V
> > 60
> > >>> hz
> > >>> when adjacent cells were fairly solid (signifying a high impedance
> > >>> condition). I thought I had a bad cell but after sanding under the
> > >>> copper
> > >>> strap & adding 3M dielectric grease & torquing back down, it charged
> > >>> perfectly with no faults, back to low impedance. I found a few other
> > >>> battery terminal bolts not tight after 20k miles (even with sealing
> > paint
> > >>> on terminal bolts CALB 130). So it's best to tighten terminal bolts
> on
> > >>> lithiums every 10k miles it seams. I used to tighten terminal bolts
> on
> > >>> old
> > >>> lead GC batteries every 500 miles but didn't think it was necessary
> > with
> > >>> lithiums but apparently they need it as well just less often.
> > >>> Best Regards,mark
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>
> --
> Put this question to yourself: should I use everyone else to attain
> happiness, or should I help others gain happiness?
> *Dalai Lama *
>
> Tell me what it is you plan to do
> With your one wild and precious life?
> Mary Oliver, "The summer day."
>
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
> Thomas A. Edison<
> http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html>
>
> A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
> *Warren Buffet*
>
> Michael E. Ross
> (919) 550-2430 Land
> (919) 576-0824 <https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones> Google
> Phone
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