Hello Ben, 

I have done this method of connecting a motor to a engine back in 1980.  The 
motor was between the engine and the transmission.  The transmission was a GM 
TH-400 automatic with a manual valve body, so I can selected the gear manually 
right at the sweet spot of a 11 inch motor.  

The motor was only used as a helper to assist the engine in hill climbing above 
33 mph.  At 33 mph or below for city driving, the engine disconnected from the 
motor using a in and out clutch.  The clutch was operated by a electric 600 lb 
actuator that engage or disengage the clutch.  The engine could be left idling 
to run the accessories such as heating, A/C and vacuum systems. 

Later, I replace the engine vacuum with a hydro boost brake system which runs 
off a power steering electric pump, so I now could shut the engine down at 
below 33 mph or when the vacuum of the engine went below 15 in.hg. 

Using a GM 252 cu.in. 6 cyclinder engine, I could maintain 34 mpg at or below 
33 mph at city driving.  I use a industrial vacuum switch made by Square D 
Company that would turn on or off the motor controller.  The switch circuit is 
in series with the accelerator circuit to the controller.

Install another 5k accelerator pot preset to a certain rpm.  A on dash transfer 
switch or using a 3 position 2 pole switch switches the accelerator circuit to 
a set rpm using the preset 5k accelerator or back to the 5k accelerator which 
is operated by the accelerator peddle.  

The same accelerator peddle could either operated the fuel system of the engine 
or the 5k accelerator. If I was only in engine mode and pressing on the 
accelerator, the accelerator linkage would move the both the electric 
accelerator and the engine fuel flow.  

If the vacuum drop below 15 inches of mercury or in.hgs., the vacuum switch 
will turn on the power to the controller and the motor will come up to the rpm 
which is set by the swing position on the accelerator pot unit.  

The transmission gearing was change where the first gear was 3.5:1, second gear 
is 2.75:1 and third gear is 1.76:1.   The differential gear is at 5.57:1 which 
is the largest one that will fit in a 10 bolt differential case. 

Now instead of going through all that in above, you could purchase a TransWarp 
motor that is design to plug right into a automatic transmission from NetGain 
who is the maker of the WarP motors.  

Today I am no longer climbing a long steep hills to work which I use this drive 
system to assist the motor.  I remove the engine and relocated a inverter 
alternator and A/C on the pilot shaft of the motor.  Still use the hydro boost 
brake system instead of the old vacuum system. 

Instead of using a standard torque converter that had a higher rpm lock up at 
3500 rpm which is ok for a engine with a sweet spot in that range, the 11 inch 
motor has a sweet spot at 1800 rpm, so I use a torque converter that has full 
lock up at 1700 rpm which is close enough.  The sweet spot of a prime mover is 
where the horse power and torque are at is maximum.   Therefore the motor 
ampere will be at the lowest at this point. 

When I design my EV for motor only drive, I contacted George Hamstra at NetGain 
to verify the engineering of a EV using a WarP 11 motor.  His email address is: 
host...@go-ev.com<mailto:host...@go-ev.com>  or 
host...@comcast.net<mailto:host...@comcast.net> or 
ghams...@g0-ev.com<mailto:ghams...@g0-ev.com> 

You send him the type of vehicle you want to use, the estimate weight without 
the motor and battery pack, wheel size, tire diameter, transmission gear ratios 
in each gear, the estimate average speed and range you want.  If you want to 
have the vehicle as a hybrid that can work as a full EV only, than you will 
need the weight of the vehicle with the engine and its components. 

He will then send you a spread sheet with the size of motor either in straight 
EV or using a TransWarP motor set up, the battery pack size for a TransWarP 
system or for a EV only battery pack which will be size in ampere hour and 
voltage.  

The battery pack for a TransWarP system will be less ah and voltage if you only 
attend to use the engine/electric all the time.  If you want to have the engine 
either idle down or shut down, than the battery pack will have to be size as 
for a EV only.

The spreadsheet will give you a estimated speed, rpm, motor amp, battery amp, 
battery voltage, and range of the vehicle.  

The TransWarp motor is normally use with its own controller which interfaces 
with a computer in the vehicles with a computer control transmission which 
detects the engine load and thus shifts the transmission at the ideal rpm and 
load. 

If your vehicle does not have a computer control transmission, you than could 
use engine vacuum load sensors like I did back in the 80's. 

Roland 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ben Goren via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 
  To: ev@lists.evdl.org<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 9:58 PM
  Subject: [EVDL] How crazy am I?


  For quite some time, I've had vague plans of getting an electric vehicle of 
some sort. When I put the solar array on my roof a couple years ago, I 
intentionally oversized it so I'd have enough extra to charge a car and still 
have (roughly, of course) net zero electric use.

  Until recently, the thought has been to get a Karmann Ghia and do a 
traditional straight-ahead full electric conversion. However, I have the chance 
to buy a 1964 1/2 Mustang in good shape for very little money...and that's led 
me on a rather interesting investigation. I came across a Web site of a guy 
with a '66 Mustang who replaced his alternator with an electric motor, and uses 
it to take some of the load off the internal combustion engine and get a gas 
mileage boost. (No perpetual motion; the motor is battery-powered, with the 
batteries charged from a wall socket and regen.)

  I know I wouldn't at all be happy with such weak sauce for a system, so I've 
done a lot of research and thinking about various options, including many that 
I've figured out wouldn't work (bigger motor with Gilmer belt, mounting the 
motor to the front of the crankshaft, etc.). I'm now down to a last hope, but 
one that I think might actually not be unreasonable.

  I should take a moment and describe what I have in mind for the goal of the 
project: something with a driving experience not unlike the Chevy Volt. It 
should have an all-electric range of a couple dozen miles or so, and a total 
range limited only by gasoline availability. After the batteries run down 
enough, it should work like a traditional hybrid, with at least some regen 
braking and acceleration assist. And if it winds up being more than merely 
"peppy" when running with a full battery charge plus the internal combustion 
motor, that's fine as well.

  ...and this would also be a good place to mention that I'm fully aware that 
everything is about compromises, and the farther one strays from the beaten 
path, the more one must compromise.

  So, with that out of the way, the idea is to keep the internal combustion 
motor and its transmission basically unmodified, and to mount the electric 
motor inline between the transmission and the differential.

  My hope is that, if I approach this as an high-performance direct-drive 
all-electric system with a big enough motor and controller, the "only" 
compromises will be cost and the expected complexity of a high-performance 
system (cooling, power transfer, that sort of thing). That is, design it as if 
I were creating a direct-drive racer (though perhaps an entry-level one rather 
than a record-breaker) with the electric motor mounted to the (appropriately 
geared) differential, and then connect the ICE's transmission to the forward 
end of the electric motor with a shortened drive shaft.

  My biggest question: is this completely crazy? Am I setting myself up for an 
expensive white elephant?

  Some of the questions and compromises that I'm already aware that I'm going 
to have to face...

  Picking a motor and controller that can handle the load of direct drive: what 
do I actually need? I'm kinda drawn to a dual AC-35 setup; would that work, or 
do I need even more? Could I get away with less? Again, I don't need something 
that'll win races, but I'm well aware that I might need something race-worthy 
just to get something that won't melt and / or burn up under low-speed current 
loads.

  What kind of gearing am I going to need for the differential? Can I get 
something low enough with stock options, or would I need a custom differential?

  This would also obviously affect the gearing for the internal combustion 
engine...again, are there reasonable stock transmission options, or am I going 
to need a transmission with custom gear ratios? (The car currently has a 
three-speed auto, which I've long since assumed would go.)

  How programmable are the motor controllers? I have in mind using the internal 
combustion motor's vacuum pressure rather than foot pedal position to set the 
electric motor's power when in hybrid modes, and I'd probably want different 
mappings depending on battery charge -- and, of course, there wouldn't be *any* 
vacuum in pure electric mode. I pay my bills by doing database programming. 
That's a different beast from this type of embedded system, I know, but I'm not 
afraid to dive into a new language...assuming it's something that's possible.

  I live in the Valley of the Sun, so I already know cooling is going to be a 
problem. Worse, I have no garage, so the car is going to be outside in the heat 
when charging. I'm assuming chill plates will take care of the controller(s). 
The car doesn't currently have A/C, so I'm thinking of getting something that 
runs purely electrically, and making it oversized, and running a duct to the 
batteries and motor (in addition to the cabin). When plugged in to the wall, I 
could then run the car's A/C to keep the batteries happy; when driving, the A/C 
could provide cooling to the batteries and electric motor both (with, of 
course, an increased load on the system and thus worse total efficiency). Would 
that kind of cooling be suitable for the motor, or will it need its own cooling 
system? I'm not worried about wasting electricity by running the car's A/C from 
the wall socket; the panels on my roof already produce a ridiculously 
embarrassingly generous surplus.

  I think that pretty much covers all my biggest questions and what I'd 
anticipate for the first round of questions from y'all.

  So...am I crazy?

  Thanks,

  b&
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