On the question, I have an opinion. The only very successful "Real" Hybrid
conversions have been those which replace the ICE with a smaller unit and
transmission and added an Electric (AC) Motor. The example of the
conversion of a Ford F-150 with a small diesel engine and an electric motor
and a 50 miles range on electric. The F-150 new sells for $50k and
converted sells for $100k.  On the other hand, a straight electric
conversion with no transmission or ICE and having a 150 miles range will
cost less.  A typical BEV conversion by a professional is about $12k...
 Considering the availability of quick charging. I vote for  "Pure EV.."
By the way if you want to increase the speed of charging by 2X (Half the
time) install a second J1772 inlet and "On-board battery charger" so you
can plug into two (2) "Charging Stations" at one time, and save half your
charging time...

Dennis Lee Miles (EVprofessor)

*Founder:    **EV Tech. Institute Inc.** (www.evti.org
<http://www.evti.org>) *

*E-Mail:*  *evprofes...@evprofessor.com* <evprofes...@evprofessor.com>

   *Phone #* *(863) 944-9913*   in Central Florida

(Office hours: 12:00 Noon to 10:00 pm, New York time)






On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Peri Hartman via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

> Ben,
>
> I'll diverge a bit from David's ideas.  First, disclaimer: I bought a leaf
> and have no hands-on experience.
>
> One way you could have an ICE and room for EV components is to completely
> take out the existing ICE and replace it with something much smaller.  Even
> though David claims the parallel configuration is more optimal, and I
> agree, you could do a series configuration with the electric motor heading
> the drive train.  You then use the ICE to power the electric motor.
>
> I imagine several benefits of this:
>
> 1. smaller ICE - it only needs to be large enough to maintain constant
> speed up a long grade.  Say you're on a 5% freeway grade and want to
> maintain 60mph.  That determines your ICE size, considering losses for
> elec. generation, etc.  You get acceleration from the electric motor; e.g.
> the leaf is 80kw and I think the volt is around 100kw; the ICE needs to be
> just big enough to provide elec. power for long-average loads.
>
> 2. more flexibility on how to use the space under the hood.  The ICE could
> even be in the trunk.
>
> 3. You can run electric only and never use the ICE for short trips -
> depending on your battery size.
>
> Disadvantages:
>
> 1. most of the things David relates.
>
> 2. you might have issues with the engine computer since you probably would
> still need it for running the dash accessories, etc.
>
> Peri
>
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> From: "EVDL Administrator via EV" <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.evdl.org>
> Sent: 19-Jul-14 1:16:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] How crazy am I?
>
>  Hi Ben,
>>
>> I'm a little surprised at the light response you've gotten to your
>> question.
>> I would have thought there'd be more folks here who at least have put some
>> thought into homebrewing a hybrid this way, if not done it themselves.
>>
>> So, even though I'm about the worst person to do so since I'm a EE dropout
>> and have never built a hybrid, I'll post a few random ideas about them
>> that
>> have popped into my head over the years.
>>
>> First, some thoughts on why or why not.
>>
>> ICEVs' efficiency has improved immensely from microprocessor engine
>> control,
>> but it's still pretty abysmal on short trips. For some folks, short trips
>> can amount to a lot of driving - take the kids to school, come home, run
>> to
>> the store, come home, pick the kids up, come home ... repeat to 40 or 50
>> significant digits. That kind of use is also hard on an ICE, because it
>> never gets properly warmed up.
>>
>> OTOH, EVs excel at short trips. They don't need to warm up, they don't
>> idle, and many have regen to claw back some kinetic energy normally wasted
>> as heat in the brakes..
>>
>> For folks who need to make both short and long trips, intuitively the true
>> hybrid seems like an ideal compromise. However, the devil is in that
>> little
>> word, "compromise." It's because you have two vehicles in one.
>>
>> To stick with conversions here, you're in effect doing a full EV
>> conversion,
>> but still leaving the engine and all its supporting hardware in place. You
>> have to find a place to mount the EV drive components and the battery; but
>> unlike a BEV conversion, you don't have nice big chunks of space where the
>> ICE and gas tank used to be. So you have a packaging challenge.
>>
>> Your vehicle also gains a fair bit of weight. And there are other little
>> places where you miss out on efficiency. For example, with the exhaust
>> still there, you probably can't add a belly pan to smooth out the
>> underbody
>> aerodynamics, as you could with a BEV.
>>
>> The result is that your hybrid isn't going to be optimized as either an
>> ICEV
>> or an EV. It's likely that its EV range will be less than a similar BEV's,
>> and its fuel efficiency less than a similar ICEV's.
>>
>> So after thinking all this over, I've decided that I'm more in favor of
>> having multiple vehicles. Each can be optimized for different needs - an
>> EV
>> for local trips, and an ICEV for long trips, for example. This is a great
>> solution where you have two drivers and two cars. With just one driver, I
>> guess it depends partly on what it costs to license and insure two
>> vehicles
>> in your area.
>>
>> I also really like the station car concept, where you commute using mass
>> transit, and lease an EV for daily use between your house and the train
>> station. In the best of these proposals, you can also swap your EV for an
>> ICEV car or van or truck, when you need that instead (you want to go on
>> vacation with the kids, or to fetch a load of lumber). Alas, I don't see
>> many of these on the horizon.
>>
>> Not that I'm trying to talk you out of this project, just presenting some
>> things to consider.
>>
>> Now, again, I'm not really the right person to advise you. But maybe if I
>> cast out some ideas here, someone else will pop up and disagree with me
>> ;-)
>>
>> First a little of my somewhat quirky nomenclature. I'm an old guy, so
>> "hybrid" still means to me what it meant in 1969. To me, a hybrid is a
>> vehicle that can use multiple energy sources.
>>
>> The cars most folks call hybrids today get all their energy from gasoline.
>> Others here disagree with me on this point, which is fine, but I don't
>> consider a car like a non-plug-in Prius a true hybrid. In my book, most of
>> the factory "hybrids" are really ICEVs with electric superchargers and/or
>> sophisticated transmissions. The Prius power splitting device is a really
>> clever gadget that amounts to an electomechanical torque converter, for
>> example.
>>
>> So let me use the term "true hybrid" here for the real stuff.
>>
>> You may already know this, but true hybrids come in two flavors, series
>> and
>> parallel. A series hybrid has its motor (only) permanently linked to the
>> driveline. The ICE drives a generator or alternator that supplements or
>> replaces the battery's energy. Diesel-electric locomotives are series
>> hybrids.
>>
>> The downside of the series hybrid is that you lose some efficiency in the
>> conversion of mechanical energy to electrical energy. Back in the 1960s
>> and
>> 1970s, before the days of microprocessor ICE control, you gained ICE
>> efficiency by running the ICE at a constant speed and load. This helped to
>> make up for the conversion losses. With today's computer engine control,
>> that's not true any more. ICEs are now much more efficient over a wider
>> range of speeds and loads. So there are fewer situations where a series
>> hybrid is apt to give you improved efficiency.
>>
>> This is where the parallel hybrid comes in. A parallel hybrid can
>> mechanically link either the motor or the ICE to the driveline - sometimes
>> both. This is the system you're proposing.
>>
>> In theory, you should get the best of both systems this way, with
>> (theoretically) fewer conversion losses. As I said above, though, I don't
>> see any way for a hybrid of any flavor to ever be as efficient an EV as a
>> pure EV, nor as efficient an ICEV as a pure ICEV.
>>
>> From what I can see, it's (not surprisingly) any hybrid is tougher and
>> more
>> expensive than a straight BEV conversion. I think this is especially true
>> of a parallel hybrid, because you have somewhat less flexibility in
>> positioning components. (One possibly more flexible parallel hybrid
>> variant
>> is the "through the road" hybrid, where you drive the front wheels with
>> one
>> fuel and the rear wheels with another.)
>>
>> To get a final result that's as efficient and as seamless as one where a
>> team of automotive engineers designed it (Volt or Plug-in Prius), you
>> probably need to have some automotive engineer chops yourself.
>>
>> But I do think you can build something that will work, to one degree or
>> another. After all, hobbyists homebrewed hybrids back in the 1960s and
>> 1970s; they can still do it today. That reminds me to mention that maybe
>> in
>> some ways you might indeed be better off converting a 1960s car than a
>> later
>> one; certainly you don't have to worry about fooling the body computer
>> into
>> thinking the engine's running.
>>
>> Just remember that you have to provide all the patches that you'd have to
>> do
>> in a BEV - power brake vacuum, power steering pressure, and aircon drive.
>> You need a DC:DC converter (or, somewhat cruder and less efficient, a
>> motor-
>> driven alternator) to provide 12v house power. You need an electric heat
>> source for cold weather driving. (It occurs to me that in a homebrew
>> hybrid
>> you might be able to dispense with some or all of those items burdening
>> the
>> ICE. Just remember that the energy to run them has to come from
>> somewhere.)
>>
>> You have to fit all this stuff in - and a motor, controller, and battery -
>> without emptying out the engine bay or removing the gas tank or exhaust
>> system, as is done in BEV conversions. So, again, packaging is more of a
>> challenge than with a straight BEV.
>>
>> Now, if you decide that you just want to make your car a "mild hybrid" -
>> where the motor boosts acceleration and recaptures energy when you slow
>> down, but the ICE still runs all the time - then that's likely to be
>> easier
>> and cheaper.
>>
>> You can even make it a "charge depleting" hybrid. In this case, the motor
>> assists the ICE all the time to at least somewhat improve its MPG. When
>> the
>> battery runs flat, the ICE takes over full motive duties.
>>
>> I've seen mention of a few "hybrid kits" for light trucks. I think we've
>> talked about a them here, so a look in the archives might be worth it. I
>> just did a web search for pickup truck hybrid kit" and turned up a couple
>> of
>> them, but I don't know what their production status is.
>>
>> In the kits I've seen mentioned, a motor unit goes between the trans and
>> the
>> driveshaft. As above, it's like an electric supercharger, and it usually
>> also captures some kinetic energy when the vehicle slows down.
>>
>> Whether you could adapt one of these kits for a car, I don't know.
>> However,
>> it looks like you'd have a better shot at it with an older front engine /
>> rear drive car such as yours, than with a modern FWD car where the whole
>> business is in the nose.
>>
>> Kits aside, if you're a good hacker (in the positive sense) with lots of
>> spare time, a machine shop and the expertise to use it at your disposal,
>> and
>> nice deep pockets, what you describe would be a fascinating project.
>>
>> I hope a few more EVDLers who've done something similar will hop on board
>> here, and give you an idea of what they went through.
>>
>> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>> EVDL Administrator
>>
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>> EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>> Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not
>> reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my
>> email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
>> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/
>> group/NEDRA)
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/
> group/NEDRA)
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20140719/a9a99f3f/attachment.htm>
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)

Reply via email to