Hello Jay,
I bought my pack new that was 183 volt at 66 ampere hour which had 24 modules. I need to up my voltage to 225 volts and ampere hour to 200 ah. So I wanted to add three more modules for a 27 module battery which came out to 226 volts at 199.9 ah which was close enough. Use four standard battery pack of 24 modules to build three a 27 module pack. Place the battery pack on a heavy duty wood table with a smooth wood top. Used C clamps to clamp the end plates before removing the threaded rods. Made new thread rods by using 6 foot 5/16 inch plated steel rods that are four or six foot long to assemble the longer pack. Had to drill out the steel spacing plates to 3/8 inch diameter for the rods to go through. Leave the rods the full length and cut them after you compress the modules together. I double nut one end of the rod and this a box end ratchet at the other end of the end plates. Using a electric drill on the double nut end to tighten and compress the modules. Make sure you tighten each rod in turn, as not to curve the battery pack. To keep the battery pack from curving, I use lengths of 4 by 4 wood place on the top and clamp down with those long clamps that come in one foot to 6 feet long. My cells came pre balance which was in with 0.001 volt of each other. Some may be in with 0.01 volt, but this was not a concern because I am going to parallel three modules together which is actual 6 cells in parallel. Parallel cells are consider as one cell, therefore these cells will balance themselves out at the same voltage. You could actual place a cell that is 1 volt to a 2 volt cell and they may become a 1.5 volt each or a 1.5 volt module. I am using 81 modules where three modules are in parallel making three 27 cells groups. Each module has two cell groups which only requires a 54 cell BMS unit. Using the 60 cell BMS from Orion.com So when I assemble the modules, I place a 0.001 volt difference module with a 0.01 volt difference module. After several cycles the voltages were all the same. You could also place all the modules in parallel initially which will all become the same voltage. I happen to have a Sony battery pack charger that is use for a camera, that is use for 4.2 volt Li Ion batteries. You can get this from Wal Mart. I use it only once, but it will take for ever to charge these cells with it. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: Jay Summet via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2015 11:10 AM Subject: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a NissanLeaf I am now the new owner of a totaled Nissan leaf purchased at a salvage yard. I'd like to hear any first hand accounts or links to tutorials/howto's/photos of anybody who has done this before. The plan is to drop and disassemble the battery pack, and re-package the modules into sixteen set of 3 modules in parallel. (16S3P) This will replace my 20 X 6v golf cart batteries (120 volt) lead acid battery pack in a few months. I am seeing advice on: 1) How to drop the battery pack safely. I don't have a lift, but do have a large concrete pad. My current plan involves multiple floor jacks under the battery pack. I know about the battery disconnect on the back passenger floor, but was wondering if there was a suggested side of the pack to drop first, how it disconnects, anything special to watch out for, etc.. 2) Specialized tools needed. Any tricky bolts/screws I'll need to purchase special tools for? 3) Advice on pack disassembly. 4) Does anybody sell bus-bars that would be appropriate for a 3-5 cell parallel pack? If I make them myself, any suggestions for material type, size/width? The plan is to connect each "pack" of 3 cells in series using my existing lead acid connection cables. (basically, replacing 20 6 volt batteries with 16 7-8 volt batteries...) As one Leaf has 48 cells, I'm using 3 cell packs for now, but am considering leaving room to expand each pack into 4 or 5 cells later...(extra holes on one/both ends of the bus-bars that stick out a bit...) 5) I'm leaning strongly towards the MiniBMS boards for leaf cells, one per parallel pack of 3 cells, comments one way or the other? 6) I'm willing to pay $200-$300 for some type of automated battery charger/discharger with logging suitable for using on an individual 2S Nissan leaf module. (To test and possibly bin the modules). Anybody know of an RC type charger/tester that supports the 4.2v cells and can handle 60+Ah discharge? (speed isn't terribly important...) Thanks, Jay _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub<http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org<http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org> For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA>) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20150324/0317ce89/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
