I have a similarly sized GE motor, and it takes about 30 amps to run with no load. However, it overheats my 30 amp power supply if used for too long, and the motor needs about 50 amps to start turning. You can start them with a 12v battery in parallel with the power supply for a few seconds if the PS won't start it on its own. One older EV I had failed due to a commutator crossover link short to the motor case inside the motor. Made a lot of copper snot when it violently melted at about 40 mph. But ultimately repairable for relatively cheap. You should not have a low resistance reading between the case and any field or comm winding terminals; if so it might indicate a problem. Higher resistance usually indicates carbon dust inside the motor, and open rarely is seen on a well used DC motor. Low resistance between field terminals, or between winding terminals is OK (in general - but doesn't rule out a short). My present EV blew a fuse once due to water getting into the charger after a hard rain (a real oddball). One other item to check - There is the possibility that one of your HV cables has rubbed through the insulation, and is shorting to another HV cable or the vehicle frame someplace.
Tom Keenan > On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > > Hurm, that is interesting. I figured the 0.1 ohm was way too low, but if > that is in the generally correct range there is a possibility that it > was just a bad fuse....but I really don't want to test by blowing > another fuse if there is a cheaper alternative ;> > > How many amps do you think I should fuse a 12 volt battery at to try and > spin the motor in neutral? > > (I have a 3 amp 30 volt bench power supply...would 90 watts be enough to > make it turn at all in neutral?) > > I haven't looked at the brushes yet, I'll probably want to tow it home first > (it's only about 1/2 mile away as this happened about 1 minute after I left). > > Jay > > >> On 12/27/2016 02:24 PM, Ben Apollonio wrote: >> I'm pretty sure terminal resistance is supposed to be 0.03 ohms so a >> normal ohmmeter won't tell you much... How about spin the motor in >> neutral with a (fused) 12V battery? Any signs of arcing on the >> commutator? >> >> -Ben >> >> On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> >> wrote: >> >>> Today my HV fuse blew, and after testing my controller, I believe >>> the problem is that my 9" FB1-4001A DC motor is shorted. The >>> motor leads are measuring at 0.1 ohm right now. >>> >>> Anybody have suggestions as to anything to look at/for before I >>> start the process of removing the motor? >>> >>> I may also be in the market for a new/used FB1-4001A depending upon >>> how things go.... >>> >>> Jay _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: >>> http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub >>> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV >>> News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at >>> NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
