The 30Ah Lithium battery I bought is advertised as Trolling battery, so low
speed silent (fishing) boat operation. Not a great fit for lead acid
replacement in a car, but you can make it work.
Cor.

On Sun, Feb 15, 2026, 11:39 PM Cor van de Water <[email protected]>
wrote:

> The 12V replacement batteries often have another side effect, depending on
> which type you bought:
> I deliberately bought a 30Ah type for my EV as replacement for the dying
> aux battery, which is more than sufficient as no cranking is involved.
> It specified a max charge Voltage as well as max current. I noticed that
> immediately as I expected something like this to happen: as soon as I
> started the car and the 100A dc/dc converter kicked on, the Lithium aux
> battery detected too high current and was switched off by the BMS. You do
> not notice this until you turn the car off and it dies instantly, as soon
> as the dc/dc turns off. This also means the battery does not charge and it
> will lose charge with every time you turn you car on again, until it dies.
> So, I added a pair of parallel 0.2 Ohm resistors, so that the Lithium
> battery needs to discharge to 11V before the 14V from the dc/dc will kill
> it, so it will somewhat slowly charge with every use until it remains close
> to the dc/dc voltage.
> I also tricked the dc/dc into always deliver 14V, as its normal behavior
> is to measure aux charging current and when that drops below a threshold,
> the voltage also drops to 13V which is too low for the Lithium battery. I
> discovered by disconnecting the sensor, the car thinks the battery is
> always seeing 150 Amps and the voltage stays 14V.
> I also added a 30A diode in parallel to the resistors so that in discharge
> direction I can draw a current peak during starting without the voltage
> dropping too low.
>
> I your application of using this type of Lithium batteries with BMS, if
> the BMS turns the charging off due to either the cells reaching max voltage
> OR seeing too high charging current, then the voltage across the BMS
> transistors can be dozens of Volts, blowing every BMS on all batteries,
> unless you give each battery its own 12V charger, but then you STILL run
> that risk during discharge when you drive the car and one of the BMS
> detects a reason to disconnect, it gets the full pack voltage across its
> transistors, which likely will overload and blow up...
>
> You can use Lithium, but the system needs to be designed for high voltage
> series operation.
> Good luck!
> Cor.
>
> On Sun, Feb 15, 2026, 6:56 PM Lee Hart via EV <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> One precaution: Dooley, if you have so-called "racing" lithium batteries
>> to replace 12v lead-acid batteries, they are *NOT* suitable for use in
>> series to power an EV. Two reasons:
>>
>> 1. Their amphour capacity is much lower than the lead-acid battery being
>> replaced. That means a lot less range in an EV. The manufacturers do this
>> to make it lighter (for racing), and so they can use fewer smaller
>> (cheaper) cells. The 12v battery in a normal car is only used to start the
>> ICE. This only need high "cranking" amps -- not amphour capacity. Even very
>> small lithium cells can have high cranking amps, but with much lower
>> amphour capacity.
>>
>> 2. These battery have (or should have) an internal BMS (Battery
>> Management System). The BMS will disconnect the battery to prevent it from
>> being overcharged or run dead to prevent fires. This disconnect is only
>> built to interrupt 12v. If you put these batteries in series and one of
>> these disconnects opens, it will see the ENTIRE series pack voltage, and so
>> is likely to fail and cause a fire!
>> --
>> Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
>> But it *does* require attention to detail! -- Lee Hart
>> --
>> Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com
>>
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