May I just weigh in with some general comments?  A friend of mine who has done 
a great deal of creating modern patterns for historical garments has made it a 
practice to research only primary sources (that is, PERIOD patterns, 
illustrations, and actual garments) rather than looking at modern patterns 
others have done.  Part of this is very practical--you do not want there to be 
any suggestion that you have appropriated someone else's work. 

Ann Wass


-----Original Message-----
From: Lisa A Ashton <lis...@juno.com>
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 7:26 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions


My experience has been that making a corset with gores is actually a VERY
ood way to fit it, especially when fitting someone with a challenging
hape (i.e. very round, wide hips but hardly any bust, etc).  I have
rimarily used the "Laughing Moon Victorian Underwear corset--the
ilverado", which comes with a selection of 4 possible bust gores
although I have taken the liberty of modifying the pattern to accomodate
ip gores if more necessary) .  Gores are small and it makes the pattern
 bit more labor intensive, so for someone who is inexperienced it can be
fificult.  I myself, have never had a problem with using hte gores, I
ust go slowly.  The pattern instructions included, while generally good,
on't really address how to place the boning when using various sizes of
ores, but I figured it out myself and have had good success.
The Laughing Moon one is the only corset pattern I"ve used with gores,
ut since I started with fantasy corsets, I haven't used many historical
atterns,i nstead I've developed my own and modified others for myself. 
 do teach classes in making a corset, and the first thing we do is
easure and fit to develop a correctly sized pattern for that person,
hen they make a permanent pattern.  
I think your objective sounds fantastic.
Yours in cosutming, Lis aA

n Thu, 24 Mar 2011 05:15:34 -0400 Michael Deibert
michaeljdeib...@gmail.com> writes:
 Good morning everyone!
 
 I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start 
 on here
 where many of you already have research. While I know a lot 
 regarding
 corsets, I have two main focuses.
 
 The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a 
 corset
 pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset 
 patterns to
 base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am 
 specifically
 hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust 
 gores.
 From the many companies out there currently selling commercial 
 pattersn,
 there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at 
 trying to
 simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe 
 that there
 might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of 
 you have
 or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that 
 direction!
 (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, 
 rather
 than just copy and paste.)
 
 Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during 
 the
 Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - 
 yet many
 of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there 
 a reason
 for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without 
 gores?
 Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this 
 direction is
 also a huge plus!
 
 Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my 
 final
 pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance!
 
 Michael Deibert
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