>From what I've read in this thread http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-adhesive-do-i-use-vinyl-228613.html maybe check with a local automotive upholstery shop. Read through there but they say that 3M Top & Trim adhesive is also good. Or, if you can't get either due to California law, check with the upholsterer to see their recommendations.
On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 2:04:19 PM UTC-6, BurnerDan wrote: > > Interesting-looking product. Commercial grade? Don't know about you, but > I'm in California - where it can't be shipped... or sold? I talked with > the DAP factory rep who assured me that the Original Contact Cement was the > best I could buy. The can says "High heat resistance." > > If the material your link talks about is available, I'd love to know how > to get some. > > > On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Bruiser Smith <smyt...@gmail.com > <javascript:>> wrote: > >> Did you use the DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement specifically? >> >> http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html >> >> It seems like it's highly recommended for vinyl applications for car >> interiors as it's rated for 250F. >> >> >> On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:18:52 PM UTC-6, BurnerDan wrote: >> >>> Watch out for contact cement losing it in high heat! I used it (the >>> original non-water-based - because DAP recommended it over the water >>> version) to attach vinyl fabric in my interior build-out of my Sprinter >>> here in LA (where we see Burning Man temps). It started off looking great, >>> seemed to have an excellent bond to metal, wood, etc. When it started >>> letting go a year or so later, I asked around and sure enough, it's not >>> that uncommon. >>> >>> >>> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:29 AM, Bruiser Smith <smyt...@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi Jacob - >>>> >>>> I've read your posts on here, the guide and videos on your Google >>>> Drive, as well as your posts on Eplaya. First off - thank you for putting >>>> together such a comprehensive guide! I am looking to apply this to my >>>> pentayurt (H10) this year, and have a couple questions which would greatly >>>> help me out: >>>> >>>> >>>> 1. What are your thoughts following the method of foil taping the >>>> edges rather than using masking tape or contact cement? I already have >>>> a >>>> large roll of 3" foil. >>>> 2. For the 'loose' hinges, did you use both 7 inch on the inside as >>>> well as the outside? >>>> 3. Thoughts on using vinyl/cc hinges for doors & windows? >>>> 4. For my structure, which needs longer lengths of vinyl, can't I >>>> just buy a few yards of vinyl and cut them length-wise? >>>> 5. Thoughts on using a hand roller to minimize bubbles? http://www. >>>> istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg >>>> >>>> <http://www.istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Again I can't thank you enough for putting together all of the >>>> resources that you have!!!! >>>> >>>> On Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:45:17 PM UTC-6, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for >>>>> covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is >>>>> really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12 >>>>> gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say >>>>> specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month >>>>> or >>>>> so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be >>>>> used outdoors is what you're looking for. >>>>> >>>>> Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want: >>>>> http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Viny >>>>> l/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1& >>>>> keywords=12+gauge+vinyl >>>>> >>>>> I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here >>>>> <https://docs.google.com/document/d/1x-PUR8OMG-4_uxGuXYmoctYTdwBAl8R0mYkJc0gnCYY/edit?usp=sharing>. >>>>> >>>>> One thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement >>>>> that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the >>>>> environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want >>>>> (takes >>>>> too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can >>>>> if >>>>> you can. >>>>> >>>>> Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches >>>>> for my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and >>>>> then 7 inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my >>>>> board thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, >>>>> that seems to be plenty strong. See my tests >>>>> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9akv0Z5bU-IazJmZ2NHa2l3dVU&usp=sharing> >>>>> (labeled >>>>> "Test") on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each >>>>> board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; >>>>> they >>>>> hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're >>>>> doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad >>>>> dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I >>>>> will >>>>> require about 31 yds of the stuff. Something like that anyway. >>>>> >>>>> Have fun! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Friday, July 5, 2013 10:00:32 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty) >>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> I LOVE this discussion of hinging technology and I'm sold on >>>>>> replacing my "permanent" tape hinges with the vinyl/contact cement >>>>>> combo--at least for purposes of experimentation. Could someone with >>>>>> experience provide a quick buying guide for the stuff? Vinyl is a >>>>>> many-varied beast and it would be nice to know exactly what to head for. >>>>>> Is >>>>>> Tap Plastics my friend in this department? Anybody have any data about >>>>>> 4" >>>>>> vs. 6" strips? ...and so forth... >>>>>> >>>>>> Many Thanks, >>>>>> Steve Upstill >>>>>> >>>>>> On Thursday, March 28, 2013 1:17:41 PM UTC-7, Jacob Rodriguez wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> So, I'm going to be building a quarter sized nearodesic polyhedron >>>>>>> ("quad") dome (1 rmax sheet = 8 triangles) for BRC this year. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> My foamcore and masking tape prototypes (1:12 and 1:5 scale) have >>>>>>> been going well. I'm learning how to do the tape hinges, and how to >>>>>>> miter >>>>>>> the edges with a razor and angled metal guide. I'm thinking that the >>>>>>> full >>>>>>> size version will be relatively easy to prepare and construct. My end >>>>>>> result is a 6' high, 12' diameter dome that folds down into a 4' x 4' x >>>>>>> 15" >>>>>>> high box. Minimal tape is required as all but one edge of each quad is >>>>>>> hinged with fabric and adhesive. Only the top square, and 4 "corners" >>>>>>> need >>>>>>> to be fully taped together. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I'm seeing lots of people commenting on how the BFT (bi-filament >>>>>>> tape) is not really UV resistant, so it flakes off eventually. Also, >>>>>>> that >>>>>>> it's barely a semi-permanent solution, even if you do tape hinges >>>>>>> instead >>>>>>> of one-time assembly. I've considered many different types of ways to >>>>>>> join >>>>>>> the triangles that would last more than one or two times: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> - zippers (needed like 400 of them, really really expensive) >>>>>>> - button snaps and straps (would glue on the snaps to the boards, >>>>>>> then use a strap to snap them together; this is not weather proof at >>>>>>> all) >>>>>>> - velcro (again, pretty expensive if you use the really good velcro, >>>>>>> which is likely the only way to guarantee structural integrity and >>>>>>> 'weatherproof-ness') >>>>>>> - magnets (even using strong ones (N45), embedding them in the edges >>>>>>> of the triangles, they could jsut fall out, and still not weather >>>>>>> proof. >>>>>>> also $$$) >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ..and a couple of other ideas. I've learned that putting metal >>>>>>> hooks/rods/bolts (binder clips) through the boards will just rip >>>>>>> through it >>>>>>> with a strong enough tug. They could end up just getting loose and >>>>>>> boring >>>>>>> out big holes. Using plus-shaped ("+") hooks/rods to fasten some sort >>>>>>> of >>>>>>> fabric over the joints are slightly better because they resist being >>>>>>> pulled >>>>>>> like a wire cutter through the board, but you would have holes in the >>>>>>> board >>>>>>> and water could get in. Also, excessive force would also just make the >>>>>>> holes looser and ruin the boards eventually. But the idea of using some >>>>>>> sort of fabric seems to hold merit. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> My main goal is to build something that can easily be packed away, >>>>>>> and assembled multiple time. Realizing that the main principles of a >>>>>>> good >>>>>>> BM structure are to seal out rain, dust and light, I think I've come up >>>>>>> with a possible solution, but I'm curious why I can't find anyone who >>>>>>> has >>>>>>> tried it.* I'm hoping to get some cautionary tales or some >>>>>>> encouragement on using sport nylon (as opposed to ripstop), and some >>>>>>> Super >>>>>>> 77 or 80 or 90 spray adhesive, instead of the traditional tape.* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The cost might be a little more expensive up front (depending on >>>>>>> some factors), but I'm thinking that the nylon will last much longer >>>>>>> than >>>>>>> just about any tape and is probably just as strong (if not stronger) >>>>>>> than >>>>>>> BFT. From what I've read, a lot of people end up using some 77 spray >>>>>>> anyway >>>>>>> because of the lubricating residue on the boards. I'm curious if it's >>>>>>> more >>>>>>> UV resistant (or at least the adhesive would be) and therefore survive >>>>>>> the >>>>>>> endless sun bathing better. Also, the concept of cutting fabric into >>>>>>> strips >>>>>>> and using spray adhesive as a backing gives the user many more options >>>>>>> when >>>>>>> it comes to materials (stronger fabric and/or stronger glue), rather >>>>>>> than >>>>>>> just limiting to such a rare find as 6" BFT. Though I'm sure that sport >>>>>>> nylon "tape" is even more rare. You can also make the strips as wide as >>>>>>> you >>>>>>> want, so you are not limited there either. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I've built a prototype of a hinged triangle using foamcore, sport >>>>>>> nylon and Super 77, which seems very, very strong. Stronger than >>>>>>> masking >>>>>>> tape anyway. I'm thinking that while it's not waterproof out of the >>>>>>> box, I >>>>>>> could always spray with some scotchguard, or tape over everything with >>>>>>> the >>>>>>> foil tape. Foil tape would also help any concerns on fire-hazard as the >>>>>>> adhesive is quite flammable. I put a hairdrier on it for about 10 mins >>>>>>> on >>>>>>> high, to see if excessive heat made the glue loosen, but it did quite >>>>>>> well. >>>>>>> I'm thinking the higher temp ratings of 80 or 90 adhesive will help in >>>>>>> that >>>>>>> area. Maybe instead of foil tape. I can spray with some sort of coating >>>>>>> that will protect against fire and water at the same time. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> For cost comparison, my project would be using about 6 rolls of 60yd >>>>>>> tape. That's about $20 a roll. Plus about 4 rolls of foil tape (for >>>>>>> outside >>>>>>> only) at another $20 a roll. I'm thinking that a can of adhesive will >>>>>>> last >>>>>>> quite a long time, so I may only need about 3 cans at about $20 a pop. >>>>>>> The >>>>>>> fabric is not that expensive (maybe 5 dollars a yard), so I think all >>>>>>> in >>>>>>> all, I might come out saving a little cash (if any at all), but ending >>>>>>> up >>>>>>> with a much more permanent/reusable solution. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Anyway, what do you all think? I'm going to be purchasing a piece of >>>>>>> polyIso to test. I'm going to make a single "quad" using this nylon and >>>>>>> adhesive, then leaving it up on my roof for a week or two to see how it >>>>>>> handles the weather. It's Santa Monica CA weather so not quite the >>>>>>> same, >>>>>>> but should give a good indication as to whether it will survive at all. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks for reading! >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "hexayurt" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to hexayurt+u...@googlegroups.com. >>>> To post to this group, send email to hexa...@googlegroups.com. >>>> >>>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>> >>> >>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "hexayurt" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to hexayurt+u...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> To post to this group, send email to hexa...@googlegroups.com >> <javascript:>. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. 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