Thank you everyone for the discussion - especially you Jacob! And a note 
from Vinay <blush> to boot! I am planning on doing this over the next week 
of a modified H10 semi-folding yurt with vinyl. I found an automotive 
upholstery place by me which will sell me the DAP Weldwood Landau Top & 
Trim HHR for $13/qt, but I have to provide my own quart can. I plan on 
picking this up from Home Depot for $3. The cheapest I have seen it is 
about $47 shipped per gallon, and although I may need more than 1 qt the 
shop is right by me and I figure I can always buy a second qt to cut down 
on extra waste.

I then also have a roll of 60yds BFT to tape the roof cone, tape ring, tarp 
ring, and then still have extra to boot for anyone who needs it. I will 
definitely be taking a lot of photographs and can send them to you Jacob to 
add to your Google Drive for those wishing to do a hybrid approach. 

Again - can't thank you enough for putting together such a great guide!!! 
I'm looking forward to how this all turns out!

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 8:12:25 PM UTC-6, Jacob Rodriguez wrote:
>
> Hey Brusier! I'd be glad to help!
>
> 1. Yeah, I don't see why not. If it's the kind of foil tape that I'm used 
> to, it has that sticky paper backing, yeah? My only concern would be that 
> the foil *could* maybe, might, potentially come loose-ish; whereas masking 
> tape or similar is a single layer. But that's a small concern, and a really 
> big IF. Since the point of pre-taping is to avoid having to apply cement 
> directly to the foam; as long as you have a higher vinyl-to-rmax contact 
> than you do vinyl-to-tape, then you should be good. I suspect the foil on 
> the tape is probably as good as the foil on the rmax, and that holds just 
> fine. We even swapped out the masking tape at one point for all-weather 
> duct tape and that also did the job.
>
> 2. I wanted to have at least 2 inches of contact on each side of the gap 
> so I used 4" wide strips for the tight hinges and 7" wide strips for the 
> loose hinges. My boards were 1.5" thick, so that's where the extra 3" went. 
> After pre-taping, I had about 1.75" of direct vinyl-to-rmax contact and 
> sometimes even closer 2" because of the mitered edge being nearly as wide 
> as my tape.
>
> 3. If you can do it, I would do it. Even though the application is more 
> involved, you are essentially making a strong thick "tape". Wherever you 
> would have thought of using tape, VCC will be a good, more permanent 
> solution. The doors on my dome were hinged with vinyl and they worked 
> really well. The great thing about vinyl is that you can choose different 
> thicknesses to suit your needs, and many are nearly crystal clear, perfect 
> for windows.
>
> 4. Definitely buy a few yards and cut it really long. That's what I would 
> do if I were you. While it's not entirely frowned upon to use two pieces 
> end to end, you'll need to note that when you pull off any BFT that you 
> *do* end up using, it will be tricky to not pull up the second strip of 
> vinyl a little. Contact cement can be stronger than the adhesive of BFT, 
> but not always, especially if it was tape that didn't have a lot of 
> exposure.
>
> 5. Yeah, a hand roller would be brilliant! I'd still recommend to brush on 
> the contact cement, wait a couple mins, then unroll a strip of vinyl onto 
> it, but we did spend a lot of time using our finger nails or glass bottles 
> to press down the vinyl. A little 2-3" hand roller just might be my next 
> bit of gear in my dome maintenance kit. Thanks for the reminder! You'll 
> almost never get all the bubbles out because the glue will be very very 
> tacky. Slowly unrolling the vinyl onto a tacky glue surface is your best 
> chance at fighting lots of bubbles. Any that do form will likely go away as 
> the cement cures.
>
> As for the contact cement coming loose, YMMV. Mine hasn't yet and it's 
> just about to be 1 year old, having only ever seen 8 days of sun last year. 
> The contact cement now has a "tan" and is a bit more "Pacific Islander" 
> than "cat pee yellow", but feels just as strong as the day I put it on. The 
> dome only needs small maintenance (due to careless tape cutting/removal) 
> but has no issues otherwise.
>

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