The only difficulty with this is that I won't have a running tap or infinite s
upply of water. Whatever liquids I have will be whatever I can carry in a 
bucket from the bathroom to the classroom.

I used to do light oil rinses on my horn, but I got marginal results at best. 
Most of the time the oil did not mix well with the valve oil that I use, and 
many times the oil gummed up, or attracted even more dirt than I wanted. Also, 
sometimes the oil mixed lightly with the 'condensation', and made the water 
even more impossible to get out. 

Even for those that cannot take the valve apart though, a soap and water 
rinse every month should theoretically yield good results. The only problem, 
obviously, is that water can sometimes accumulate inside the valve casing between 
the bearing plate and the valve itself. And, sometimes the only way to remove 
it is to remove it by hand or remove all the slides and let everything air dry 
on its own. But even letting it air dry for a day should get rid of the hidden 
water there.

I've heard many times that oil rinses are good, or that even dropping oil 
into the leadpipe every now and then yields good results. However, personally, 
I've never had positive results with it. Why oil the rest of the horn when you 
only need to oil the valves? :) Also, if you've got an oil/grease buildup 
that's causing a problem, sometimes you need to break down the oil (i.e. soap and 
water) in order to get any results. And yes, soap breaks the surface tension of 
water, which allows for it to more easily wash away oil and grease. Once the 
water dries, you've got a clean slate. Good luck trying to match oils which 
rinse each other out. There are a thousand types of valve/rotary oils out there, 
and most of them are different chemical compounds. Lamp oil will sometimes 
gum up with some oils, like it did with me. 

One other consideration with this is that lamp oil is not manufactured to be 
used as a lubricant. No matter how 'pure' the label says the stuff is, you're 
still buying oil that is cheap enough to be sold for a few dollars for 24 
ounces of the stuff. Even Blue Juice (which I recommend against) is sold for about 
10 dollars for a 16 ounce bottle, and the highest quality oils are even more 
expensive. Lamp oil is manufactured to burn. Valve oil is designed as a 
lubricant. That's why a good small bottle of Hetman Synthetic or Rika oil will cost 
as much as it does. You get what you pay for.

Anyone else had marginal results with oil rinsing by the way?

Back to the labelling of the parts, most valves are generally labelled 1, 2, 
3, 0, etc. as well as most bearing plates on most horns. If they're not 
labelled, it's usually a good idea to label them with a small mark somewhere on the 
bottom of the valve away from any bearing plate. I always take all the valves 
out at once rather than one at a time. All the valves get taken out, and I 
know exactly where each valve should go. 

Besides, why do eight cycles with the ultrasonic cleaner (two for each 
valve?) when it's far simpler to do just two? I've done this many many times. Since 
I've only got one hour to do a cleaning, it's much quicker to take all the 
valves out and put them back in.

-William

In a message dated 9/8/2004 4:35:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Perhaps before you go thru the valve disassembly & cleaning process, you
could demonstrate how to do a basic 'valve rinse' using lightweight valve
oil or UltraPure unscented Lamp Oil as a way to flush-out sluggish valves. 
-
It sure is alot safer for a non-technician horn player to do a valve rinse
than trying a full cleaning - especially if the only problem is sluggish
valve action due to old oil/grease build-up.
-
For the full cleaning, I suggest to only work on 1 valve at a time, that
way parts don't get swapped, and there are intact valves to show how they
are supposed to be re-assembled...

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY
amateur player, non-technician
_______________________________________________
post: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
unsubscribe or set options at 
http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org

Reply via email to