In a message dated 9/8/2004 8:27:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I've heard many times that oil rinses are good, or that even dropping oil > into the leadpipe every now and then yields good results. However, > personally, > I've never had positive results with it. Why oil the rest of the horn when > you > only need to oil the valves? :) Also, if you've got an oil/grease buildup > that's causing a problem, sometimes you need to break down the oil (i.e. > soap and > water) in order to get any results. And yes, soap breaks the surface tension > of > water, which allows for it to more easily wash away oil and grease. Once the > > water dries, you've got a clean slate. Good luck trying to match oils which > rinse each other out. There are a thousand types of valve/rotary oils out > there, > and most of them are different chemical compounds. Lamp oil will sometimes > gum up with some oils, like it did with me. > We have to remember that the oil does two things: First, it provides a thin, viscous membrane between the bearing surfaces which allows the rotor to "float" in the bearings. That's why you get good valve action with an oiled valve. Second, the oil protects the metal from corrosion. So, the lubricant must have some important properties. It must be sufficiently viscous, and it must evaporate as slowly as possible. Oils which are sufficiently viscous, but evaporate quickly will not be as protective against corrosion. You will have to oil quite often. Oils which are not sufficiently viscous, no matter how slowly they evaporate, will not allow proper valve action. Mixing dissimilar oils can result in improper viscosity and surface tension. Oiling down the leadpipe ought only to be for protecting the leadpipe, which collects most of the water and acid from your breath. It only requires a small amount of oil. I personally am not a fan of flushing valves while in the horn. Water cannot be completely removed, and when oiled, the oil will only float on the water which is already on the rotor surface. Again, one of the goals is to protect the metal with the oil. And last, if your valves are slowing down, an oil rinse will likely only be a temporary fix. They are slowing down because of corrosion and grit. An oil rinse may remove some of the grit, but it won't remove the corrosion. It's already there. Eventually, there will be too much of either and an oil rinse won't work. If you want to work on your own valves, be sure to learn how to do it properly. Be sure the valves and casings are dry before applying oil and re-assembling. But most of all, invest time in preventive maintenance. Clean your mouth before playing, empty your horn after playing, and oil before you put it away. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited _______________________________________________ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
