So how do folks do their "hand adjustments?" . . . [I guess I should start a new topic for this.]
On Nov 3, 12:47 pm, Robert Krawitz <r...@alum.mit.edu> wrote: > I had the same problem on the Pilgrim monument. There are only four > spots, at the center of each side, where there's a clear view without > glass and bars getting in the way. It's fortunate that I have an 8-16 > mm lens; I don't think even a 10 or 11 mm lens would have provided > enough overlap for a good stitch and a 12 mm lens probably wouldn't > have been wide enough, period. I did have to fix some things up by > hand where the parallax error was too great (the parking lot at the > bottom had some problems that I had to fix manually, in addition to > the horizon problem I mentioned earlier). > > I actually generally do use JPEGs, and I haven't done TCA correction > or predefined lens models (which are likely to be accurate only at one > particular focal length, anyway). And all too often I do them > hand-held. But when I look at my panoramas, I generally don't see a > lot of TCA problems. As for RAW vs. JPEG, the 7D does a very good job > of in-camera processing. If the light's such that I'm going to have > serious dynamic range problems, I probably need more than the > additional one or two stops I'll get from my own RAW processing. The > P-town panorama, for example, did have dynamic range problems, but > simple exposure bracketing and fusion worked very well. -- I have no choice but to use jpeg on my Nikon CP4500 (Tiff isn't really a reasonable choice time wise and the camera has no RAW.) > For this one: > > http://rlk.smugmug.com/Other/Landscapes/4851912_XB4SmT/1488875261_xzm... > > I really did have to use RAW, though (and fix up a lot of sky by hand, > also). > > There is one little trick I sometimes play that I haven't seen > mentioned anywhere to reduce the aspect ratio and get more foreground > detail. With wide angle lenses, the final output is somewhat torpedo > or barrel shaped due to the projection onto a planar surface. I make > a second pass with Hugin, treating the first stage panorama as having > been shot by a cylindrical lens (like a Spinshot camera) of between 20 > and 35 mm focal length and then re-projecting it as rectilinear, which > applies a pincushion effect. -- I'd have to see to understand (my fault not yours.) Perhaps you should make a tutorial? :-) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Hugin and other free panoramic software" group. A list of frequently asked questions is available at: http://wiki.panotools.org/Hugin_FAQ To post to this group, send email to hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to hugin-ptx+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/hugin-ptx
