> 1) Surface preparation > - To which grit should I sand the surfaces? Is 600 grit, dry sanding OK? > - There are a few areas of the skin that are slightly cracked. For > example, > I have thin cracks around the elevator hinges. Should I resurface these? > If > yes, is Polyester body filler OK?
Body filler is HEAVIER than dry micro. But it works. > 2) Choosing the paint > I am given a choice between polyurethane/polyester and polyurethane / > acrylic. Which one is best? There was somthing about the bonding compatability between polyester resins and epoxy resins...for glass work. My recollections were that Epoxy sticks to anything, but polyester may not stick to epoxy... with respect to glass. Having said that, I used Featherfill on my tailplane, and it is a polyester system, with no problems. (It is a primer/filler). For cars... I use ACME acrylic polyurethane paint... but for My KR I used the water reducable paints... I liked the fact that the fumes wouldn't kill me as fast as the car paints. Painting in the garage, and the dog and cat didn't have resperators. However, some people don't like the results you get with water reducable paint. I think it is easier to get a good finish with the acrylics than the system three stuff. You can see my 50' paint job of N541RY using System III paint at http://N541RY.US If you manage to navigate into the flash stuff I even have a slide show on the painting process. I used a 2-1/2gal compressor, barely adequate for the job, and some inexpensive spray guns. (Harbor freight has some nice ones). Preperation is everything. Another nice thing about water reduceable paint. With the acrylic enamels you need to buy reducer based on your paint shop temperature. When I painted cars in AZ, this was a hassle, as the heat would cause the reducer to evaporate too quickly. With the water reducable stuff, you use water/alcohol mix (primer) and water (topcoat), and it evaporates at the speed of water. There is a epoxy catylist (few drops per mix), that cures the paint as well to be fuel proof. I did my KR painting in Oregon, and the evaporation was OK... but perhaps slower than the more volotile reducers that other paints use. > > Serge Vidal > KR2 ZS-WEC > - Taildragger, VW powered (2.4 liter, dual electronic ignition) > - Total aircraft time: 390h > - Aircraft hangared at: Orleans, France > E-mail: serge.vi...@ate-international.com > <mailto:serge.vi...@ate-international.com> > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html -- Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
