In message <snt127-w5443a5f5546d1c79a5ce42ba...@phx.gbl>, Bridget Marrow
<bridgetmar...@msn.com> writes
HENRY VIII
The costumes look splendid, and really bring the portraits to life. I
think the goldwork may have been embroidery rather than lace on the
original.
Some time ago I quoted a passage from J R Planché's book, "A History of
British Costume" - published by Charles Knight, London, 1836 - which is
based on contemporary reports of the costumes worn. The following quotes
are from this book.
'When Henry VIII met Anne of Cleves he was habited, according to Hall,
in a coat of velvet, somewhat made "like a frocke, embroidered all over
with flatted gold of damaske, and other laces of the same going
traversewise, that the ground little appeared, and about this garment
was a rich guard or border, very curiously embroidered; the sleeves and
the breast were cut and lined with cloth of gold, and tied together with
great buttons of diamonds, rubies and orient pearles."' (pp 237-8)
(Hall - Union of the Families of York and Lancaster, Folio. London
1548-50)
But, I've just found another, earlier quote... Page 221, talking about
his father, Henry VII....
'This sort of habit, however, was worn only by the nobility. In
Barclay's Ship of Fooles of the Worlde, printed by Pynson AD1508, may be
found several notices of the dress of the day. Mention is made of some
who had their necks
"Charged with collars and chaines
In golden writhes, their fingers full of rings,
Their necks naked almost unto the raines,
Their sleeves blazing like unto a crane's wings."
And others are called on to "come neare" with their shirts "bordered in
forme of surplois."
Shirts bordered with lace, and curiously adorned with needlework,
continued a long time in use amongst the nobility and gentry.'
Laces (note the s) are mentioned separately, in terms of use for
attaching slashed parts of sleeves together....
'The elegant fashion of slashing makes its appearance about this
time...... the complete division of the sleeve into two or more pieces,
and their attachment to each other by means of points or laces through
which the shirt is seen puffed and protruding.'
which is why I think the "lace" bordering the shirt is different to the
"laces" (think shoe-type laces) joining the parts of the sleeves. Gold
network was used in under caps at this time. (p222).
Lace is mentioned the chapter about Elizabeth - from the time of the
Armada in 1588 when she has a portrait painted, wearing "a high-standing
collar edged with lace" and then mention of ruffs in a quote from a
document by Stubbs ('Anatomy of Abuses') "clogged with gold, silver or
silk lace" (p258)
But, lack of referral to lace prior to that date doesn't necessarily
mean that it wasn't being worn.
and then onto the gowns,
"but if the whole garment be not of silk or velvet, then the same must
be layed with lace two or three fingers broad all over the gown; or if
lace is not fine enough for them, hesays they must be decorated with
broad gardes of velvet edged with costly lace"
If I remember correctly (and I'm sure I'll be corrected otherwise!) lace
was being made in Spain before Katherine of Aragon came to England (ie
late 1400s), and it would therefore be likely that she would possess
lace, and maybe some of her ladies would know of its production. At this
time, Henry VII was still on the throne (until 1509). The much mentioned
pattern books - published in the 1560s (?) and saying that lace was
being made for some 25 years previous to that - puts a date around 1536,
when Elizabeth would have been about three years old - and Henry VIII
didn't die until 1547. Planché writes that fashions didn't change much
between Henry VIII and Elizabeth's reigns - possibly with the amount of
money needed for the various wars no-one could afford it! Also, how
skilful were the artists of the time in depicting lace as opposed to
embroidery? We depend a lot on portraiture, but can we be certain what
we are looking at?
Could the reason why the earlier writers described the needlework as
being curious be because they hadn't come across lace before and it was
as near a description as they could make, especially to needlelace?
--
Jane Partridge
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