If you have a 12' machine, you would need to get on your knees to see the
bottom, and you would need a ladder to see the top.  How's that for a
problem? :-)

-Tim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "curt george" <curtgeo...@wowway.com>
To: <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: Furniture Maker Who Hoisting of Mills out of Way when not Using


> Hello Andy Here is an idea that Ive been thinking about for a while now.
> If you are thinking of making your own machine, conceder this idea.
> Instead of making the unit Horizontal (like everyone has.) why not think
> Vertical?
> It would make a smaller foot print. (if you have the proper ceiling
height.)
> I dont for-see many problems with this idea. But I look at it this way,Why
> not let Graverty be your friend here? ;-)
> Think about it.
> And let me know what you think.
> C.A.G.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Andy" <atmarti...@gmail.com>
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 12:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Furniture Maker Who Hoisting of Mills out of Way when not
Using
>
>
> >I think the cost is relative to the goal you are trying to accomplish.
> > The desire for a custom machine capable of everything the legacy has
> > (while keeping the accuracy an fidelity) for a few hundred bucks
> > sounds like the holy grail. The 80/20 P/N 1515 (square t-slot rail) is
> > $0.53/inch and the doubled up 1530 rail is $0.93/inch (a quarter to
> > half the cost of the legacy rail). If you're going to traverse over a
> > 10 or 12 foot span, doing so with a plastic bushing such as what the
> > legacy has, sounds like your asking for pain. I would assume anyone
> > stretching their machine would also invest in an equivalent length of
> > ACME threaded rod. Nook Industries sells linear ball screw nuts for
> > acme threaded rod. They don't report the price on their website but i
> > would expect to pay anywhere from 100-250 for one depending on the
> > precision -which is probably the amount of money you would save in
> > buying the 80/20 rail. Remember this is only the nut, not the screw
> > itself.
> >
> > Amazon has linear bearings starting at 10 bucks for the back side if
> > there are binding problems. You'd have to check a local metal stock
> > yard for a high polished or nickel plated 4130 cold-rolled steel for
> > the linear bearing to ride on. I have access to a metal scrap yard
> > that has lots of random lengths of stuff like that. All steel (not
> > including stainless) is sold for $0.30/lb this includes acme screws
> > which i have seen there. If you live in utah, the place is called NPS.
> > Those that don't live in utah...this could be costly if you have to go
> > to a yard. Another, cheaper option would be making your own using
> > standard 3/4" or 1" black iron pipe. Remember, this is garage
> > engineering, not industry standard precision.
> >
> > Good call on the 80/20 linear ball bearing kit Tim! That looks like it
> > would probably add another $100 and you would avoid the headaches of
> > trying to make your own (worth it in my option). The kit itself is
> > about 60 for the 15 series 80/20 but I'm sure there would be other
> > parts needed.
> >
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