Andy, think of it as building a large dovetail jig, like Leigh, only the
fingers where the guide bushing rides are a lot longer, if you cut the
spacers all the same size you end up with equally spaced tails On the wood,
just make it long enough that you can cut all of them without moving the
jig, I hope this helps, if you would like I could make a small one so you
can get the concept, this jig does work well.

I would not use the legacy, router table,or shaper for this, there are too
many variables that have to be controlled with them,
With this jig cut all the spacers the same size screw it all together clamp
it on your piece of wood so nothing moves,
Take the router with a guide bushing in it run it down the open grooves on
the jig and you got consistent equally spaced tails,
Let me know if I can help you further,
Roger

On Wednesday, August 1, 2012, Andy wrote:

> I was originally planning on rotating the stock to 45 degrees and then use
> the Y axis only to cut the sliding dovetails. The more i think about this,
> It may be easier to perform on my router table by making a jig to cut my
> first 45 deg dovetail slot. Then pull that off and mount a piece of square
> stock on the router table for the previously cut dovetail to ride on as a
> fence. This would be similar to how you cut a finger joint on a table saw
> with a dado blade. I think this is along the lines of what Roger was
> getting at. I think i need a little more explanation on your jig Roger.
>
> Unfortunately, depth of the dovetail is critical. I can more accurately
> control depth on my router table than I can on my 900. If my table on the
> 900 is slightly off or the stock faces aren't parallel, It will fit on one
> end but not the other
>
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