I like that, I heard they use lignum for bearings on submarines. It should
last forever, pictures please.
On Jan 17, 2013 7:50 PM, "Ccm Ccm" <ccmdesi...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Curt,I used to have the top hat bushings, a while back i made some T
> shaped guides
> out of lignum vitae, and so far i am liking them better than the top hat
> they seem to
> not have as much play, and a little shot of dynaglide every once in a
> while and they
> glide real smoothly
>
> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 4:39 PM, curt george <curtgeo...@wowway.com>wrote:
>
>> Hello Brandon
>> I am sorry to say it takes a lot of fussing with, You need to have a
>> happy medium between the two worlds, (stability & mobility.) My 1000ex
>> tends to be on the stability side of things, It slides well but there is
>> still a small friction factor,but it moves very well with a few squirts of
>> Dyna-Glide. I think its the nature of the beast. But having said that, I
>> don't need to use Dyna- Glide all the time to keep things moving. just
>> every so often. But as I said earlier, temperature dose effect the alum.
>> rail. I tend to use more D/G in the winter than what I use in the spring
>> and summer.
>>
>> I see Bill chimed on in, asking if there was a non-aerosol version of
>> Dyna-Glide yet. I've seen it on the web. but not first hand yet. But I'm
>> looking Bill. ;-)
>>
>> Brandon I think that the "T" shaped glides are better than the top hat
>> ones. for stability.and ease of alignment. but that's just me. from what
>> I've seen the top hat ones, seem to move freer.
>> Dose anyone out there have first hand experience for both types of
>> glides? I have the "T" down, but only have touched the "top hat" ones once.
>> so I cant judge the two. To me its apples and oranges.
>> Good luck with your alignment problems, But know I too have had problems
>> with screws loosening and falling out of the frame.
>> "O"Great now what happened? Was it me, or the machine this time? Drat!!
>> It sure is a learning curve, even for the old-timers.
>> Dont take anything for granted, I check all bolts on my Legacy at least
>> once a month, Just to be safe.  ;-)
>>
>> have a good night.
>>
>> C.A.G.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brandon Khoury" <blkhou...@gmail.com>
>> To: 
>> <legacy-ornamental-mills@**googlegroups.com<legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
>> >
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 5:10 PM
>> Subject: RE: Rail lubricant
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey Curtis,
>> I have already taken apart the sled and squared it up, which helped
>> tremendously. I think my issue now is that the long rails are slightly out
>> of parallel. I also discovered that on the tail end, one of the elevator
>> pivots is coming loose. That is what caused the initial twisting of the
>> rails. Hopefully, once I fix that it will be better. But I may have to
>> check that they are parallel over the full run. We've talked a bit about
>> this before, but when I disassembled the sled and put it back together, I
>> snugged that "T" glide over against the rail to prevent twisting of the
>> sled. In doing so, I created a lot of friction. There will always be some
>> give and take in that respect. You can make the sled very secure with
>> little to no unwanted motion, but it will make the sled difficult to slide.
>> Likewise, I can invite slight movement of the sled to free up ease of
>> motion, but it will allow some inaccuracies when cutting. I just haven't
>> had the time to do a proper setup. But, I can say that the silicone
>> lubricant I got from work made a huge difference. I can also say that my
>> sled still doesn't slide as easily as, it appears it should, in the Legacy
>> videos on their website.
>>
>> Brandon
>>
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