Having already built a homemade z axis I would suggest not using legacy's thread but choose a much finer pitch thread A 4tpi pitch tends to move under vibration of milling and you need a very strong locking system to hold it from moving Where a much finer pitch is much easier to control movement under vibration. Also don’t limit your building materials to wood there are many materials out there that can be milled drilled and sawn Delrin for just one also I feel with the tight tolerances you will need to use on whatever slide you come up with moisture with the different seasons of the year could be an added problem loose side in the dry months and too tight in the wet months This is just my 2 cents worth on making a z axis all thoughts and experiences I had when I was making mine Bill
-----Original Message----- From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Brandon Khoury Sent: Sunday, 17 August 2014 8:41 AM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Shop made Z-axis I haven't considered the pitch of the lead screw. Ideally, it would be one of Legacy's 1/4" per revolution. However, it will likely be whatever I can find at a local hardware store. I keep going back and forth on the orientation of the plates. When I did the sketchup, I invisioned the router mounts facing the user on the front side of the mill. But, if I decide to incorporate a tilting mechanism I would have the mounts facing the headstock. In either case, I think the locking know will be easily accessible. As far as plunging the router, I typically set the cutting depth off to the side, then crank in along the y axis. I have very rarely plunged down into the woods directly. I can only think of a hollowed spiral that have down that on. I have seen some videos from Legacy in which Tracy uses the lead screws to drop the bit down into the wood. So, I think the same function would exist, but it would be a bit slower than tradition plunging. Ideally, the lead screw could be disengaged, like using a split nut, to allow faster setup. Then re-enable to set a more precise depth. Not sire how to make that happen. Not really sure if it is even necessary. Brandon -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4745 / Virus Database: 4007/8045 - Release Date: 08/16/14 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
