and since we are on the subject of the gear carriage, here is something i 
will throw out there and see if anyone has any suggestions...in 
considering( and i will emphasize the word "considering"...LOL) widening 
the bed to increase the turning capacity of the machine,what could be done 
to the gear carriage to accommodate the added width that must be made to 
it, while still being able to use all the legacy gears, including the 
reversing carriage to do opposite twists?...i have worked out all that has 
to be done to the machine to widen it, but saved the worst for last...and i 
would not consider making a complete set of custom made gears a 
solution...too expensive...high points to anyone who has a solution using 
only items found in a mcmaster-carr catalog!...LMAO!... later guys!...joe

On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 5:55:36 AM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote:
>
> good morning to all(at least it's morning for some of us!)...the swivel 
> bearing is an excellent idea, but due to it's overall size, it seems it 
> would take a bit of machining and major modification to the whole gear 
> carriage to make that happen...double checked the taper situation this 
> morning and there will not be a problem with doing tapers on my extended 
> machine if i just loosen the split collars a bit...not sure if there would 
> be an issue on a 1200 or 1500...and then there is the bronze bushing in the 
> middle gear...there is a decent amount of play with that gear, which i am 
> not going to mess with(for now, anyway!...LOL!)...excellent pick up by tim, 
> as i did have to cut a little bit off the end of the idler gear carriage to 
> allow the smallest gear to be used...joe
>
> On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 10:47:59 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>>
>>  
>> Can you still install the smallest gear?
>>  
>> -Tim
>>  
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> *From:* 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 20, 2015 5:58 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: gear carriage bearing upgrade
>>
>> sorry guys, forgot to mention this in my initial e-mail...the needle 
>> bearings are in their own steel housing, so if you loosen the screws a bit 
>> to the split shaft collars,there is enough allowance  for the bearing to 
>> move within the confines of the shaft collar to do a taper to your 
>> work...in fact you can "dial it in" ,so to speak, to still have a tight 
>> tolerance while setting up the taper...not sure if there is enough 
>> allowance to deal with a full taper though...i'll play with that 
>> tomorrow...but i would be curious to know if you could do a full taper and 
>> not have any gear issues on, for example, a legacy 1200?...thanks for the 
>> responses...joe 
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 7:04:37 PM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote: 
>>>
>>> On longer mills this upgrade may not effect tapers too much.  But the 
>>> shorter mills will bind this up, I'm afraid.  You should see how sloppy my 
>>> Wood Chuck is, never ever jumped a tooth.  And I have all the fine teeth 
>>> gears too.  Hope this does not become a problem for you.  Only way to tell 
>>> is set it at full taper.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> OK
>>>
>>> On 1/20/2015 5:45 PM, Bill Bulkeley wrote:
>>>
>>>  Can the mill still do tapers I have found that I like a bit of slop in 
>>> everything in the gears and linkage so there is enough movement  for when 
>>> you lower one end of the rails to mill tapers.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>  
>>>  
>>> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com [
>>> mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 21 January 2015 10:03 AM
>>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* gear carriage bearing upgrade
>>>
>>>  
>>>  
>>> ok, so doing some work on the headstock end and saw that the gear 
>>> carriage assembly was a bit loose and "floating" around a bit...a further 
>>> inspection revealed that the bronze bearings were worn a bit and that was 
>>> enough to cause gears to wobble and perhaps,at times, not mesh 
>>> properly...some quick measurements and a dive into the mcmaster book and i 
>>> could see with just a few shaft collars(3 total) and a couple of needle 
>>> bearings, things should tighten up much better than replacing the bronze 
>>> bushings...so an improvement was called for...a little bit of welding, some 
>>> minimal grinding and the job is done...total time was 1 1/2 hours, start to 
>>> finish...the end result is an incredible difference...the carriage is very 
>>> tight and does not move or waver at all...replacing the bearings is a snap, 
>>> as well, as split collars were used, although i might expect the needle 
>>> bearings to last a very long time...with this mod, the machine is now 
>>> totally on bearings(in the process of doing the "Z" axis now), all axis' 
>>> and all turning points...sorry for the two bad photos, close-ups just don't 
>>> come out well with the camera i am currently using...and haven't decided 
>>> what color to paint this one yet, waiting for a suggestion from 
>>> curtis...LOL!...anyway, all comments welcome and more mods to follow...and 
>>> if anyone should want more detailed info on this mod(like specific mcmaster 
>>> numbers, for example) or any i have done in the past, feel free to 
>>> ask...thanks...joe
>>>
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