I was always going to go down a different path and work like a copy carver that you see on the net every were and mount it to the legacy saddle. the counter weight on those works quite well I know I own one so applying the same principle to the legacy I feel would work well
Set the saddle feeding along with the motor and just copy calve up and down the template as it goes you would of course lock the cross way travel .and for finer copy bits just slide the saddle by hand. Counter balancing the router with like a see saw rather than trying to work the z axis with springs or whatever I feel would be easier to achieve, and based on a copy carver the template could be mounted at the back using legacys own template holder modified to hold the template vertical That’s my 2cents worth Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS GEORGE Sent: Thursday, 5 March 2015 12:53 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: "Z" axis template follower Hello Joe Ive been working on this problem for a few years now. If you look in our archives I first made what I called the profile follower, It used a rubber/guide to follow the profile of an already made spindle, (I know its not quite the same as you are looking at. But please bear with me.) Next I made a Up Graded Z axis to follow a template, (much like the Legacy's model 200 did.) It worked but I could not compensate the weight of the router well, I tried springs, counter weighted pivot arms, and a number of different ways to get the Z axis free floating follower usable but gravity problem solved still have not be solved. What I have found that works the best, is to give up on the fine details, and just make a rough templates, that will not move up and down is drastic movements, a large bearing can be used,so that will not get stuck in the details of a template. If you look again in our archives Mike Pung made his Radio-lathe-duplicator that really works, (again different but the also the same...) (( http://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/Pugn3.htm)) Making a free floating Z axis that has a controllable plunge and rise would be a neat feat to achieve. I feel its do-able but so far its something that I have not been able to get good results with. Perhaps Hydraulics? or A pneumatic system, could be used? but so far that is something that I have not tried. I wish you luck on your quest. ;-) Have a good night. C.A.G. _____ From: "'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2015 6:48:43 PM Subject: "Z" axis template follower okay time to see if anyone is alive out there!...considering(and i will emphasize the word "considering") a mod that you can set up a template follower on the "Z" axis...i can see some added benefits using certain router bits to do template work, with the bit being at the 12 o'clock position while following a pattern...on our previous mill (a killinger), we were always working with the bit at the 12 o'clock position, and that method worked well for us...but the legacy presents some problems...one being the "Z" axis must be on bearings for this to happen, in my opinion...in my case, i do not see that as being a big problem, just some more linear rail and bearing carriages as i have done on the "X" and "Y" axis'...next is a way to disengage the axis' acme threaded rod from the plate that holds the router, in such a way that it is a simple procedure to go back and forth from being attached, to not attached...seems to me the easiest way to do this is to remove the angle plate that is directly behind the router altogether... i did this on a second "Z" carriage i have and there is no discernible effect on the up and down movement of the router platform...otherwise you would have to remove the router and put it back numerous times...too much of a PITA, in my opinion...so removing this piece is important...use some shaft collars at the top of the acme adjuster rod, just underneath the hand crank wheel...this allows the router platform to go up and down by turning the hand wheel as it did previously...now to disengage the router platform so it can "float", simply remove the hand crank(set screw), loosen the two socket head screws for the top bracket and the shaft collars and remove that upper assembly... and remove the two screws holding the bottom bracket...all this can be done in about a minute or two, without having to remove the router platform...so the router is now "floating", but needs a counter balance...i'll address that in another post...would very much like to hear some other ideas or suggestions from the group on this subject...thanks for the read...joe -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. 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