Depending on what you find, oil soaked rags may make a temp seal.  I use non 
toxic salad oil.  Unless there is something bad in your harbor mud, the Indian 
River water is not toxic, I swam in it to clean boat bottom and lived.

Lee Haefele


On May 1, 2012, at 10:01 PM, JohnB <catsai...@gto.net> wrote:

> Good stuff. On the MKII there is really no areas of egress for water in 
> the stern, no through hull fittings and motor/s are outboard. Only thing 
> is the skeg which is bolted through the hull  which wouldn't be enough 
> that big pumps couldn't handle.
> 
> The tarp is probably the best idea as it would seem to be a hull 
> problem. Having said that the hulls are glass and thick from back when 
> glass was cheap and weight was not a big issue.
> 
> JohnB
> s/c Drumbeat Iroquois MKII
> 
> On 5/1/2012 9:37 PM, Rufus wrote:
>> Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.
>> 
>>> big hole...
>> Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged edges, 
>> won't help your hands.
>> 
>>> pump...
>> To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction on 
>> the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and rout 
>> it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift out 
>> the companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce 
>> that will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it 
>> does to eat anything it can reach.
>> If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to 25 
>> gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look 
>> something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take 
>> but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out 
>> water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false 
>> assumptions and _that_ never helps anything.
>> 
>> Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps 
>> full, monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want 
>> it to. 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the 
>> rudder, prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most 
>> likely suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs 
>> to suit; West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under 
>> most of the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so 
>> it stays in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only 
>> the one pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of 
>> barnacles.
>> 
>> Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores is 
>> probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for under water 
>> and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8" sticks or tubes; 
>> temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in about 10 minutes after 
>> kneading parts together
>> 
>> Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to drive 
>> than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use battens 
>> to aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box stores 
>> (HD at least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but check a 
>> piece for bend-ability before planning on it.
>> 
>> IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas from 
>> an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would work for 
>> you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.
>> 
>> Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and 
>> you'll just find a hose off a through-hull or something.
>> 
>> Rufus
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