Yeah, the saran wrap has helped a lot. It keeps it from getting dry. I think heat has a much bigger part in the process than UV light. I will sometimes go out periodically and use a hair dryer to help speed up the process.
If you think about it, the developer is used on hair and they use heat, not UV to make the bleach process happen. From: Robert J. Hutchins Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 9:29 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? Thanks, I have a jug of 50… The saran wrap sounds like a good idea. From: M100 [mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com] On Behalf Of Scott McDonnell Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 6:05 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? I used 40V cream developer that I bought in a huge jug a couple of years ago. Brushed on and wrapped in saran wrap. From: Robert J. Hutchins Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 8:31 PM To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? Very impressive. Did you soak it in solution of H2O2, or just brush on the paste. Bob Hutchins From: M100 [mailto:m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com] On Behalf Of Peter Noeth Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 4:48 PM To: Model 100 Discussion <m100@lists.bitchin100.com> Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? I believe the original color was a "Bone White" (slight grey and very slight yellow added) as opposed to a "paper white". Your Retrobrighted picture looks very much like my T102, which has never been exposed to sunlight or tobacco smoke, and is the same color on the outside and inside. My M100 was second hand and is slightly more yellowish on the outside than the inside, but only noticeable when sitting next to the T102. I can't tell from the picture, but how did the function key labels fair in the process. They are silk screened on. At least Radio Shack had the good sense to keep the "double shot molded" keycaps, otherwise the legends would be pretty well expired on most of these computers by now. Regards, Peter <snip> ----------------------------- Message: 14 Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2021 09:26:21 -0800 From: "C.Magaret" <mega...@yahoo.com> To: m...@bitchin100.com Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? Message-ID: <166a614b-22c6-4051-87ed-e8e4e6817...@yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Agreed. The M100 was originally that off-white color, so I don?t think it will get much whiter than that. CAM -- C.A. Magaret Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo. Please forgive any typos, inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections. > On Jan 3, 2021, at 05:01, Jeffrey Birt <bir...@soigeneris.com> wrote: > > ? > Looks nice! > > Jeff Birt > > From: M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com> On Behalf Of Scott McDonnell > Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 4:10 AM > To: m...@bitchin100.com > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > I don?t know if this picture will embed or not, but this is the result of my > retrobright. I decided not to remove the LCD lens because it looked too easy > to crack trying to pry it away from the glue. So I just masked it off. I > thought it would turn out whiter, but I think the natural color is off-white. > Here it is beside a non-whitened case: > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MZCpylAc7sEgBvqDzL0j89Z7oVEL8uc_/view?usp=sharing > > > > From: Scott McDonnell > Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 11:13 AM > To: m...@bitchin100.com > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > Since I will be ordering the Novus polish, I guess I will order some white > epoxy as well to fill in the burn mark on this case. > > I started disassembly and see that I will need to be careful of the little > speaker inside. No way to remove that without breaking some plastic. > > I also need to make funeral arrangements for the spider that apparently chose > the M100 as its preferred final resting place. > > Scott M. > > From: Joshua O'Keefe > Sent: Friday, January 1, 2021 10:57 AM > To: m...@bitchin100.com > Subject: Re: [M100] Retrobrighting. To do or not to do? > > On Jan 1, 2021, at 7:48 AM, Scott McDonnell <mcdonnell.j...@comcast.net> > wrote: > > I am going to remove the LCD lens and badge first. > > If you're going to have the clear piece out already, I come to very highly > recommend Novus 3 step plastic polish to buff out any scratches or wear on > it. I had light to moderate "micro" scratches on my LCD lens and even with > my fairly poor buffing technique I was able to almost completely rejuvenate > the part using steps 2 and 3. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20210103/0d14bd63/attachment-0001.html> <snip>
