Dave
the Japanese block is usually blue not black and is clearly stamped "Nissan
Japan" and has (normally) 2 dipstick holes
cheers
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: David Costello <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> if I was going to use the Z22 crank idea what block would I start with?
>
> CA20 or a jap L20 block?
>
> if I should use the L20B how do I tell the difference between a jap or
aust
> block?
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000 5:13
> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
>
> >Murray Coote did my last head, he no longer does them.
> >cost me $1300 to get done.
> >
> >use a Z22 crank, not the Z24
> >Z22 is a counter weight crank, the Z24 isn't
> >i know i guy with twin 45's and a Z22
> >making 163 rear wheel HP
> >he's chasing 48's, trying to get a bit more top end.
> >
> >Heath
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 8:49
> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >
> >
> >>
> >> who in Brisbane would you recomend to do up a head to those specs?
> >> and what head would be best to use?
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46
> >> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >>
> >>
> >> >Andrew
> >> >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together.
My
> >> >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over
the
> >> >years:
> >> >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >> >44 mm inlet valves
> >> >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >> >36mm exhaust valves
> >> >Polished exhaust port
> >> >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good
rule
> >is
> >> >'cats tongue')
> >> >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall
flex,
> >> but
> >> >use forged flat tops.
> >> >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke
ratio
> >> for
> >> >easier revs.
> >> >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston
> >heights
> >> >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation.
> >> >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends
> >> >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg
> >Summerville
> >> >at Jindalee.
> >> >
> >> >regards
> >> >Brad
> >> >
> >> >----- Original Message -----
> >> >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM
> >> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Andrew,
> >> >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To
run
> >> 11:1
> >> >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making
> around
> >> >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet
> >> >valves.
> >> >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely
> >removed
> >> >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust
> valves.
> >> >The
> >> >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped
&
> >> >swirl
> >> >> polished.
> >> >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not
> >only
> >> >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D
> >laid
> >> >on
> >> >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size.
> >> >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc.
> >You
> >> >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it
> smoother
> >> >and
> >> >> more grunty out of corners.
> >> >> My two bobs worth anyway.
> >> >> Cheers
> >> >> Feral Errol
> >> >> ----------
> >> >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >> >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were
> >discussing
> >> >> freshening
> >> >> up the old donk.
> >> >> so
> >> >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly
> >reliably.
> >> >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported
> >head,
> >> >> larger
> >> >> valves, flat tops.
> >> >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
> >> >> block(pistons?
> >> >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
> >> >> without
> >> >> too many electronic gizmos.
> >> >> please advise and thanking in advance.
> >> >> andrew
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
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