Never heard of them. I only ever go to Summervilles, as do my racing
buddies. He is straight up and down and knows his stuff, and doesn't wind
the clock to give you what you want like a lot of operators.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> heard anything good or bad about Redcliffe Dyno and Performance?
> everyone around here recomends them over anyone else in or around Brisbane
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46
> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
>
> >Andrew
> >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together. My
> >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over the
> >years:
> >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >44 mm inlet valves
> >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >36mm exhaust valves
> >Polished exhaust port
> >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good rule
is
> >'cats tongue')
> >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall flex,
> but
> >use forged flat tops.
> >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke ratio
> for
> >easier revs.
> >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston
heights
> >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation.
> >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends
> >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg
Summerville
> >at Jindalee.
> >
> >regards
> >Brad
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM
> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >
> >
> >> Andrew,
> >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To run
> 11:1
> >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making around
> >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet
> >valves.
> >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely
removed
> >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust valves.
> >The
> >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped &
> >swirl
> >> polished.
> >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not
only
> >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D
laid
> >on
> >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size.
> >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc.
You
> >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it smoother
> >and
> >> more grunty out of corners.
> >> My two bobs worth anyway.
> >> Cheers
> >> Feral Errol
> >> ----------
> >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51
> >>
> >>
> >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were
discussing
> >> freshening
> >> up the old donk.
> >> so
> >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly
reliably.
> >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported
head,
> >> larger
> >> valves, flat tops.
> >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
> >> block(pistons?
> >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
> >> without
> >> too many electronic gizmos.
> >> please advise and thanking in advance.
> >> andrew
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
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