how much does he want for it scott?
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2000 3:25
Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>If anyone is after a Z22 crank in the Brisbane area my mate has one going
>cheap. I just got mine going again. The sound of a turbo is good. And I
>didn't realise how much I missed the bark of twin 45s until last night.
>Music to my ears!
>
>Scott
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Costello <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000 19:33
>Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
>
>>if I was going to use the Z22 crank idea what block would I start with?
>>
>>CA20 or a jap L20 block?
>>
>>if I should use the L20B how do I tell the difference between a jap or
aust
>>block?
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Heath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000 5:13
>>Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>
>>
>>>Murray Coote did my last head, he no longer does them.
>>>cost me $1300 to get done.
>>>
>>>use a Z22 crank, not the Z24
>>>Z22 is a counter weight crank, the Z24 isn't
>>>i know i guy with twin 45's and a Z22
>>>making 163 rear wheel HP
>>>he's chasing 48's, trying to get a bit more top end.
>>>
>>>Heath
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 8:49
>>>Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> who in Brisbane would you recomend to do up a head to those specs?
>>>> and what head would be best to use?
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46
>>>> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >Andrew
>>>> >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together.
My
>>>> >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over
the
>>>> >years:
>>>> >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve
>>>> >44 mm inlet valves
>>>> >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve
>>>> >36mm exhaust valves
>>>> >Polished exhaust port
>>>> >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good
rule
>>>is
>>>> >'cats tongue')
>>>> >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall
>flex,
>>>> but
>>>> >use forged flat tops.
>>>> >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke
>ratio
>>>> for
>>>> >easier revs.
>>>> >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston
>>>heights
>>>> >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation.
>>>> >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends
>>>> >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg
>>>Summerville
>>>> >at Jindalee.
>>>> >
>>>> >regards
>>>> >Brad
>>>> >
>>>> >----- Original Message -----
>>>> >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM
>>>> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >> Andrew,
>>>> >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To
run
>>>> 11:1
>>>> >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making
>>around
>>>> >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet
>>>> >valves.
>>>> >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely
>>>removed
>>>> >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust
>>valves.
>>>> >The
>>>> >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped
&
>>>> >swirl
>>>> >> polished.
>>>> >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not
>>>only
>>>> >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D
>>>laid
>>>> >on
>>>> >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size.
>>>> >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc.
>>>You
>>>> >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it
>>smoother
>>>> >and
>>>> >> more grunty out of corners.
>>>> >> My two bobs worth anyway.
>>>> >> Cheers
>>>> >> Feral Errol
>>>> >> ----------
>>>> >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>>> >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were
>>>discussing
>>>> >> freshening
>>>> >> up the old donk.
>>>> >> so
>>>> >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly
>>>reliably.
>>>> >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported
>>>head,
>>>> >> larger
>>>> >> valves, flat tops.
>>>> >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
>>>> >> block(pistons?
>>>> >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
>>>> >> without
>>>> >> too many electronic gizmos.
>>>> >> please advise and thanking in advance.
>>>> >> andrew
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
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