Murray Coote did my last head, he no longer does them.
cost me $1300 to get done.
use a Z22 crank, not the Z24
Z22 is a counter weight crank, the Z24 isn't
i know i guy with twin 45's and a Z22
making 163 rear wheel HP
he's chasing 48's, trying to get a bit more top end.
Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 8:49
Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
> who in Brisbane would you recomend to do up a head to those specs?
> and what head would be best to use?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46
> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
>
> >Andrew
> >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together. My
> >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over the
> >years:
> >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >44 mm inlet valves
> >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve
> >36mm exhaust valves
> >Polished exhaust port
> >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good rule
is
> >'cats tongue')
> >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall flex,
> but
> >use forged flat tops.
> >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke ratio
> for
> >easier revs.
> >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston
heights
> >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation.
> >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends
> >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg
Summerville
> >at Jindalee.
> >
> >regards
> >Brad
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM
> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >
> >
> >> Andrew,
> >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To run
> 11:1
> >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making around
> >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet
> >valves.
> >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely
removed
> >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust valves.
> >The
> >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped &
> >swirl
> >> polished.
> >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not
only
> >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D
laid
> >on
> >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size.
> >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc.
You
> >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it smoother
> >and
> >> more grunty out of corners.
> >> My two bobs worth anyway.
> >> Cheers
> >> Feral Errol
> >> ----------
> >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51
> >>
> >>
> >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were
discussing
> >> freshening
> >> up the old donk.
> >> so
> >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly
reliably.
> >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported
head,
> >> larger
> >> valves, flat tops.
> >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
> >> block(pistons?
> >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
> >> without
> >> too many electronic gizmos.
> >> please advise and thanking in advance.
> >> andrew
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
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