If your car is lowered by 3cms. it's most likely bump steering. Look under
the front at the control arms, these are the arms running from the engine
cross member to the lower end of the strut. If these arms are near
horizontal or sloping upward toward the strut end, that's your problem. You
correct by either:
1 Raising the hight of the front end back to standard.
2 Lowering the outer end of the control arms with specially fabricated
lowering "blocks" fitted between the steering arm and the control arm.
(Refer to Errol)
3 Raising the inner pivot point of the control arm by relocating the bolt
through the cross member to a higher location (Some owners also move these
outward to increase negative camber)
----- Original Message -----
From: "uniken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, 26 September 2000 23:09 PM
Subject: RE: brakes
> Thanks heaps for the replies Richard and Terry. My car does have a
booster,
> so probably as you suggested it has had a 240k swap. The braking seems
very
> good, and pulls up heaps better than most other cars. (Maybe I just need
> some more horsepower hehe).
>
> Today I got my spluttering carbies sorted out... running nicely now, so
now
> it's onto the next problem. The car seems to tramline a lot. Sometimes its
> swerving all over the road when braking for a set of lights where the
trucks
> have made the road all lumpy. What causes this sort of problem. I'm
guessing
> its got toe out or not enough toe in. It seems worse under brakes so maybe
> the castor arm bushes are worn. What should I look out for? I'm going to
> have a look at it this weekend.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris Howard
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:05 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: brakes
> >
> >
> > Your mate is right on both accounts. Your twin piston Sumitomos
suggests
> > your front struts are probably off a 240K Coupe. 240K Sedans
> > didn't have the
> > twin pistons. These bolt in to the 1600 but you should also have a 240K
> > master cylinder. If you also have a power booster this would
> > confirm there
> > is a swap.
> > The 'tapered pads' are for original 1600/180B calipers that pivoted at
one
> > end and were installed at an angle to the disc rotor when fitted with
new
> > pads. The caliper became parallel to the disc when the pads wore out.
>
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