I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great induction noise and
they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't change much at
all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.

"Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:

> Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my 1981 200B
> L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came out in
> various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need to know.
>
> I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a different
> water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also get the
> clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my friend has
> about it...he says it's extreme.
>
> I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got a ye olde
> carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on fuel (you
> have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>
> > G'day all,
> >
> > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy with the
> > results, there is a significant increase in performance and change of
> > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull and
> Trading
> > post.
> >
> > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). Desirable features
> > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, lowish mileage.
> > cost 2nd hand $100
> > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous clutch, fan does
> > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger clutch, very
> > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify horrible
> > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1  cost ~$30
> > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> >
> > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > Regards,
> > Nick
> > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > Subject: Newbie
> >
> >
> > > Hello all on the list!
> > >
> > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many years,
> > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life.  I could get
> it
> > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have that
> > > done.  I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he suggested
> an
> > > L20B motor.  This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy swap and
> > I'm
> > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something with a
> > > little more urge than normal.  However, anything that I *can* get out of
> > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to spend heaps
> > and
> > > gain little).
> > >
> > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?  What can
> be
> > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a little more
> > power,
> > > without going overboard?  By 'overboard', I mean I'm not interested in
> > > building some 200HP race-ready monster.  This is my daily driver, and
> > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > >
> > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; I can't
> > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra (including
> > > polishing etc).  A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I just
> don't
> > > know what yet.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Brian K.
> > >
> >
>

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