You guys talked my into the SUs...what car do I aquire them from? 180B SSS?
With the manifold you say? And where can I get a peanut chamber head?
I would also assume that my L20B block is the soft australian one coming
from a '79 automatic 200B? It used to be a '77 Japanese one I'm pretty
sure...my car says 'Nissan Japan'...and it's car no: 000030 remember. Too
bad we tossed that one into the bush. It had a snapped timing chain and
water gushed out the side of the block...we didnt bother with it since the
whole car cost $30. The block is still there in the bush...but someone got
the head and 3 pistons..1 piston was stuck in the block :) mustve had a hard
life before I got it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Clough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
dont
> have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump. They dont come
on
> really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock carby
> set up.
> You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
that
> will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
> Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>
>
> > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great induction
> noise and
> > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't change
> much at
> > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
> >
> > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
1981
> 200B
> > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came out
in
> > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need to
> know.
> > >
> > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
> different
> > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also get
> the
> > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my friend
has
> > > about it...he says it's extreme.
> > >
> > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got a
ye
> olde
> > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
fuel
> (you
> > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >
> > > > G'day all,
> > > >
> > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy with
the
> > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and change
of
> > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull and
> > > Trading
> > > > post.
> > > >
> > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). Desirable
> features
> > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, lowish
> mileage.
> > > > cost 2nd hand $100
> > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous clutch,
fan
> does
> > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger clutch,
very
> > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
> horrible
> > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1 cost ~$30
> > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> > > >
> > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Nick
> > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > > > Subject: Newbie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hello all on the list!
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
years,
> > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life. I
could
> get
> > > it
> > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
that
> > > > > done. I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
> suggested
> > > an
> > > > > L20B motor. This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
swap
> and
> > > > I'm
> > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
with
> a
> > > > > little more urge than normal. However, anything that I *can* get
> out of
> > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to spend
> heaps
> > > > and
> > > > > gain little).
> > > > >
> > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B? What
> can
> > > be
> > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a little
more
> > > > power,
> > > > > without going overboard? By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
interested
> in
> > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster. This is my daily driver,
> and
> > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > > > >
> > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; I
> can't
> > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra (including
> > > > > polishing etc). A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
just
> > > don't
> > > > > know what yet.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Brian K.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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