Greg, Good advice, that's the SOB way of doing them and the way I was taught in the 70's by meticulous head mechanics for prepping dirt racers. You are very unlikely to have a bearing failure if you follow this technique.
regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Greg Sent: Friday, 11 January 2002 5:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Brake Rotor Change Also, to seat them properly, shouldn't you tighten the nut up while rotating the rotor back and forwards, and then back the nut off, and then torque it up while turning rotor again? I do this when ever I have the bearings out. I was taught this by someone, don't know if it is common practice. Also, there is bugger all torque required to do the nut up. DO NOT USE THIS FIGURE, but to give an idea as to how little pressure is required, around 7.5 - 10nm is all that is required. The service manual should be referred to for correct figure. regards Greg -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Simpson Sent: Friday, 11 January 2002 1:26 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Brake Rotor Change Mark, and others. Before i begin, i dont like to shoot some one down in flames, or seem to have a go at them, as this is not my intention here. But i can not endore this method of doing wheel hubs/discs at all. This is a pet hate of mine. The hubs from the car, i'll assume they are the 1600's, will have a torque setting from the book, Off the top of my head i dont know it. It doesnt matter what discs are on them the torque settings will still be the same, as you are torquing the hubs to the stub axles not the discs (either bolted ones or floating ones) Further to this there will also be a split pin and a hexagonal shield over the nut to stop it from coming undone. The torque settings are determined from the factory by studying the bearing crush under load. The conical cage and roller bearing are designed to have a certain force holding the cages together so that the rollers can do their job and roll along. If you crush the cages too tightly together then the rollers will have way to much friction on them and will over heat and wear out very quickly, regadless of how much grease you put in there. If you do them up too loosely then the rollers will not roll in the manner that they are designed to, they will slop around, you will get very sloppy wheel movements and again they will wear out much before they are ment to. You must follow the torque settings, roll grease right into the bearing, fit them with out dirt and crap in there, and tighten them to the specs. Place the hexagonal shield over the nut and put a new split pin through the hole and bend the longer pin over the head of the nut. Follow this and you'll never have any troubles. Again, i dont mean to jump on any ones toes, and feel free to comment back on this, but i feel that i do need to correct this point. Chris S mark krawczuk writes: > hi, what i do , and have NEVER had a failure is: make sure bearings > have enough grease. titen the bearing up pretty firm, then slacken off > till its just loose. > then get the correct spanner, and using one or two fingers , pull on the > spanner till it stops with gentle pressure. then with a little more > pressure pull on the spanner a bit harder then it will stop. i leave it > like this. > > its a little hard to describe exactly how much pressure to put on it , > but if you follow the above , and mess around a little with it you`ll > see what i mean. > > mark k > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jimmy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:57 PM > Subject: Re: Brake Rotor Change > > > > how do i do this? > > > > what happens if i just tighten em up? > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 5:41 PM > > Subject: RE: Brake Rotor Change > > > > > > > When you put the rotor back on make sure you adjust the preload on the > > > bearings... > > > Don't just tighten them up... > > > Seen it happen.. > > > Iggy Sandejas > > > Sydney NSW > > > Datsun 1600 FJ20t > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Michael Foreshew [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > > Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2001 16:25 > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: Re: Brake Rotor Change > > > > > > > > > Nat, > > > > > > It appeared to be fairly simple but never can be quite sure. I didn't > > think > > > to change the bearings but that is a great idea. A little bit of > > > preventative maintenance. Thanks > > > > > > Cheers > > > > > > --- "nat P." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > >--- Na thats a bout it! I would look at changing teh > > > >wheel bearing since the disc is off the car! Just a > > > >idea! Its a pretty simple process. Theres no real > > > >trick to it! > > > >Cheers NAT > > > > > > > >__________________________________________________ > > > >Do You Yahoo!? > > > >Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. > > > >http://phone.yahoo.com > > > > > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > > > Get Your free Ozdat Email Account > > > ---> http://www.ozdat.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
