Richard,
 
The 280ZX is a popular upgrade for the US PL510. Here's an article from one of their websites that covers the basics with this upgrade. A 280ZX upgrade narrows the standard track on a 1600 by 11mm or those running 200B/240K hubs by 19mm (all from the outside of the wheel) so you can make it up by fitting a 6.5 inch rim widened outwards. I'm told that bump steer spacers really are mandatory although this article says they're optional (everyone's 1600 is lowered by more than an inch me thinks)
 
regards
Terry
 

Using 280ZX Front Struts and Callipers/Rotors...

The current "popular" brake swap for improving the 510's braking is to install the front disk brakes from a 280zx (79-83). This is a fairly straight forward swap, with only a small modification required. The parts needed for this swap are:
280ZX Strut units
280ZX Rotor and Hub
280ZX Front brake callipers
280ZX Master Cylinder (optional - I'll get into that later)
Bump steer spacers (Optional - needed if your car is lowered more than an inch)
This swap is almost a "bolt-in" solution. The 280zx used a wider spring than the 510. The solution to this problems is to remove the spring perch from the 280ZX strut and have the stock 510 spring perch welded-in. This also allows you to alter the front-end ride height by re-installing the 510 perches higher or lower than where the 280zx strut perches were. You may also choose to use coil-over springs instead of the 510 perch/spring combo, but you'll still need to remove the 280zx strut perch. FYI: I paid around $75 to have some spare 510 strut perches installed onto the 280zx strut unit.

Once the spring perch has been dealt with, this swap is basically bolt-in. (i.e. remove the stock 510 strut units and replace with the modified 280zx strut units.) If you choose, you can continue to use the 510's stock (13/16") master cylinder, just remember that your brake pedal will have a shorter travel distance and a stiffer feel. To remedy this situation, you can either install a power brake booster (from a 610 or B210) or install the 280ZX (15/16") Master Cylinder. I choose to install both, as an experiment, and am quite pleased with the feel of the pedal.

A thing to consider before doing this swap is the fact the rotors are much larger the the stock 510 and the stock steel wheels and many 13" wheels will no longer fit over the rotor/calliper combo. My 13x7 ARE Alloy wheels just barely clear the callipers. For my spare tire, I'm running a 16" spare from a mid-eighties 200SX.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Clough
Sent: Monday, 18 February 2002 10:34 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Brakes for a 1600

Mick
 
Some good work on this brake setup, no wonder they dont fade!
 
On the topic of better brakes, what is the best way to use a pair of 280ZX front struts with brakes on a 1600?
 
Replace the top half of the strut with a spring holder that will fit smaller dia. springs and a strut top suited to the 1600 strut tower? eg 1600 or 240K.  (Another option I am considering using is a 240Z spring platform and top as these are smaller dia and will allow a good deal of camber adjustment in the strut tower)
 
Or do you just use the vented discs and hubs on another strut.  If so which strut/caliper combo? e.g. do the 280ZX discs fit on 240K/skyline stub axle which may then allow the use of Volvo 4 spot calipers on this strut?.  (The Volvo calipers wont bolt on to the 280 strut with the disc mounted in its conventional location) 
 
I picked up the 280ZX struts  for $75 the pair  yesterday at Pick a Part - I had to take them at the price, just to play with combinations like the above.  Any experience with the 280ZX struts and brakes will be welcome.
 

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