Adam,

Good question. It's a bit tricky - back in my workshop days at Lennocks we
actually used a 3 foot breaker bar over the biggest mother of a tension
wrench I've ever seen that went up the 250 lbs/ft or there abouts and I
think it was provided for these nuts only, as I never saw anyone use it for
anything else. The average automotive tension wrench for heads etc only goes
up to ~100 lbs/ft. In the real world, like my garage at home I still use a 3
foot breaker bar with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket and tighten them up as
much as I can without breaking something, a 3 foot piece of water pipe bends
like a banana though - you use the weight of the car i.e. wheels on the
ground (when the car is just about off the ground, they've got to be just
about tight enough) and I've never had premature bearing wear or ever had
one come loose. Getting them undone is fun too, especially if they've never
been off - two of us pushing down on a breaker bar couldn't get one of those
damn nuts to budge on a 180B once so we heated it up a bit and that did the
trick.

regards
Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 11:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.


Terry,

How did you torque the lock nut to 240 ft/lbs? I've a rattler that could
tighten it up that tight, but no idea if it is actually tight enough??
Should i take it to a workshop just for the tightening? Or just put the
rattler on it then bend over the tops of the lock nuts?

cheers,
Adam

----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Rudd
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:03 PM
Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.


Cam,

That's it in one.

Mark,
If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped on them
eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than C. You
can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be very
careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to
permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up and
spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to the
axle and not the housing.

The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff with a
press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as clean
as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the half
shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33 kg/mtr).

regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.


Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are graded
in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten that
stub axle.  :)

No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.

Cheers,

Cam
CM510
www.sprite.com.au/cm510
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Alford
To: Ozdat discussion list
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
Subject: Wheel bearings.


Hey guys,

Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without damaging
them?

Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a piece
of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.

Mark.


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