One last question, what grease is best to use on these bearings?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Jackson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.


> Terry,
>
> Ok thanks, i'll do it up as tight as i can
>
> cheers,
> Adam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:58 PM
> Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> > I wouldn't worry about welding them - even if it does somehow come a bit
> > loose, it's only going to rattle like blazes and at worst case it would
> > stuff a bearing or two. The idea of a wheel coming out of the housing
and
> > flying off down the road isn't going to happen.
> >
> > Anyone know what sort of tension a rattler can go up to?
> >
> > Just curious
> >
> > TR
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> > Sent: Wednesday, 5 June 2002 6:09 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > Thanks Terry, I think i'll just hang off the rattler for a while then
bend
> > the tops over maybe even tac weld it?
> >
> > cheers,
> > Adam
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:53 AM
> > Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > > Adam,
> > >
> > > Good question. It's a bit tricky - back in my workshop days at
Lennocks
> we
> > > actually used a 3 foot breaker bar over the biggest mother of a
tension
> > > wrench I've ever seen that went up the 250 lbs/ft or there abouts and
I
> > > think it was provided for these nuts only, as I never saw anyone use
it
> > for
> > > anything else. The average automotive tension wrench for heads etc
only
> > goes
> > > up to ~100 lbs/ft. In the real world, like my garage at home I still
use
> a
> > 3
> > > foot breaker bar with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket and tighten them
> up
> > as
> > > much as I can without breaking something, a 3 foot piece of water pipe
> > bends
> > > like a banana though - you use the weight of the car i.e. wheels on
the
> > > ground (when the car is just about off the ground, they've got to be
> just
> > > about tight enough) and I've never had premature bearing wear or ever
> had
> > > one come loose. Getting them undone is fun too, especially if they've
> > never
> > > been off - two of us pushing down on a breaker bar couldn't get one of
> > those
> > > damn nuts to budge on a 180B once so we heated it up a bit and that
did
> > the
> > > trick.
> > >
> > > regards
> > > Terry
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> > > Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 11:15 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> > >
> > >
> > > Terry,
> > >
> > > How did you torque the lock nut to 240 ft/lbs? I've a rattler that
could
> > > tighten it up that tight, but no idea if it is actually tight enough??
> > > Should i take it to a workshop just for the tightening? Or just put
the
> > > rattler on it then bend over the tops of the lock nuts?
> > >
> > > cheers,
> > > Adam
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Terry Rudd
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:03 PM
> > > Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cam,
> > >
> > > That's it in one.
> > >
> > > Mark,
> > > If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped
on
> > them
> > > eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than
C.
> > You
> > > can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be
very
> > > careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to
> > > permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up
> and
> > > spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to
> the
> > > axle and not the housing.
> > >
> > > The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff
with
> a
> > > press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as
> > clean
> > > as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the
> half
> > > shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33
> kg/mtr).
> > >
> > > regards
> > > Terry
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
> > > Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> > >
> > >
> > > Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are
> > graded
> > > in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten
> that
> > > stub axle.  :)
> > >
> > > No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Cam
> > > CM510
> > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Mark Alford
> > > To: Ozdat discussion list
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
> > > Subject: Wheel bearings.
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without
> > damaging
> > > them?
> > >
> > > Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a
> > piece
> > > of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.
> > >
> > > Mark.
> > >
> > >
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