Thanks Terry, I think i'll just hang off the rattler for a while then bend
the tops over maybe even tac weld it?

cheers,
Adam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:53 AM
Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.


> Adam,
>
> Good question. It's a bit tricky - back in my workshop days at Lennocks we
> actually used a 3 foot breaker bar over the biggest mother of a tension
> wrench I've ever seen that went up the 250 lbs/ft or there abouts and I
> think it was provided for these nuts only, as I never saw anyone use it
for
> anything else. The average automotive tension wrench for heads etc only
goes
> up to ~100 lbs/ft. In the real world, like my garage at home I still use a
3
> foot breaker bar with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket and tighten them up
as
> much as I can without breaking something, a 3 foot piece of water pipe
bends
> like a banana though - you use the weight of the car i.e. wheels on the
> ground (when the car is just about off the ground, they've got to be just
> about tight enough) and I've never had premature bearing wear or ever had
> one come loose. Getting them undone is fun too, especially if they've
never
> been off - two of us pushing down on a breaker bar couldn't get one of
those
> damn nuts to budge on a 180B once so we heated it up a bit and that did
the
> trick.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 11:15 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> Terry,
>
> How did you torque the lock nut to 240 ft/lbs? I've a rattler that could
> tighten it up that tight, but no idea if it is actually tight enough??
> Should i take it to a workshop just for the tightening? Or just put the
> rattler on it then bend over the tops of the lock nuts?
>
> cheers,
> Adam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry Rudd
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:03 PM
> Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> Cam,
>
> That's it in one.
>
> Mark,
> If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped on
them
> eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than C.
You
> can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be very
> careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to
> permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up and
> spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to the
> axle and not the housing.
>
> The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff with a
> press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as
clean
> as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the half
> shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33 kg/mtr).
>
> regards
> Terry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
> Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are
graded
> in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten that
> stub axle.  :)
>
> No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Cam
> CM510
> www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Alford
> To: Ozdat discussion list
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
> Subject: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without
damaging
> them?
>
> Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a
piece
> of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.
>
> Mark.
>
>
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