Terry,

Ok thanks, i'll do it up as tight as i can

cheers,
Adam

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:58 PM
Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.


> I wouldn't worry about welding them - even if it does somehow come a bit
> loose, it's only going to rattle like blazes and at worst case it would
> stuff a bearing or two. The idea of a wheel coming out of the housing and
> flying off down the road isn't going to happen.
>
> Anyone know what sort of tension a rattler can go up to?
>
> Just curious
>
> TR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> Sent: Wednesday, 5 June 2002 6:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> Thanks Terry, I think i'll just hang off the rattler for a while then bend
> the tops over maybe even tac weld it?
>
> cheers,
> Adam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:53 AM
> Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
>
>
> > Adam,
> >
> > Good question. It's a bit tricky - back in my workshop days at Lennocks
we
> > actually used a 3 foot breaker bar over the biggest mother of a tension
> > wrench I've ever seen that went up the 250 lbs/ft or there abouts and I
> > think it was provided for these nuts only, as I never saw anyone use it
> for
> > anything else. The average automotive tension wrench for heads etc only
> goes
> > up to ~100 lbs/ft. In the real world, like my garage at home I still use
a
> 3
> > foot breaker bar with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket and tighten them
up
> as
> > much as I can without breaking something, a 3 foot piece of water pipe
> bends
> > like a banana though - you use the weight of the car i.e. wheels on the
> > ground (when the car is just about off the ground, they've got to be
just
> > about tight enough) and I've never had premature bearing wear or ever
had
> > one come loose. Getting them undone is fun too, especially if they've
> never
> > been off - two of us pushing down on a breaker bar couldn't get one of
> those
> > damn nuts to budge on a 180B once so we heated it up a bit and that did
> the
> > trick.
> >
> > regards
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> > Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 11:15 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > Terry,
> >
> > How did you torque the lock nut to 240 ft/lbs? I've a rattler that could
> > tighten it up that tight, but no idea if it is actually tight enough??
> > Should i take it to a workshop just for the tightening? Or just put the
> > rattler on it then bend over the tops of the lock nuts?
> >
> > cheers,
> > Adam
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Terry Rudd
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:03 PM
> > Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > Cam,
> >
> > That's it in one.
> >
> > Mark,
> > If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped on
> them
> > eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than C.
> You
> > can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be very
> > careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to
> > permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up
and
> > spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to
the
> > axle and not the housing.
> >
> > The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff with
a
> > press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as
> clean
> > as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the
half
> > shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33
kg/mtr).
> >
> > regards
> > Terry
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
> > Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are
> graded
> > in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten
that
> > stub axle.  :)
> >
> > No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Cam
> > CM510
> > www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mark Alford
> > To: Ozdat discussion list
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
> > Subject: Wheel bearings.
> >
> >
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without
> damaging
> > them?
> >
> > Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a
> piece
> > of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.
> >
> > Mark.
> >
> >
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