I suppose it's a good idea to loosen the lockring first, before
tightening it, or else it might try to grab the whole unit and twist. I
think the electrical portion installs from the inside, so please don't
break it off, or you're hosed!
It's real easy to R&R with the pump sitting on my bench, but doing it on
the car might be trickier in order to get a good purchase on the
lockring with a chisel.
Casey
Dave M. wrote:
Casey,
You da MAN!! The one time I attempted to tighten the castle-type
lockring, the
whole electrical portion turned as well. I thought they were connected
somehow
inside the pump, so you couldn't turn it without taking things apart
inside. I
guess mine was just sticky and I needed to tinker with it more. I was
going to
explore this on my spare pump, but it sounds like the proverbial piece
of cake
based on what you described. Thanks for the info!
:-)
-dm
Quoting Casey & Susan Kanzler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
Alright, the discussion piqued my interest, so I went out to the shop
and tinkered with a spare pump. The L7 connector is held on with a
castle-type lockring, and under that is a metal sealing ring. The
sealing ring can be replaced from the top (if you can find a new
one), but it's probably just as effective to loosen the lockring,
clean under there real good, squeeze in a good perimeter of sealant,
and re-tighten--or just further tighten the lockring down without the
cleaning/sealant. I used a small small hammer and chisel set to
loosen/tighten the lockring.
Probably should add this little procedure to the list of stuff
requiring attention when the intake manifold is removed.
Casey
