Thanks Peter, I like to pull the calipers and grease the pins on other cars, couple of times a year, especially with all the salt and stuff here. I haven't really gone through the 300E's brakes yet, but now that the weather is improving, I want to go through the whole system, and freshen things were needed.
Thanks again, Ed 300E 2009/2/28 Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net> > On the W124 the fronts are single piston floating caliper design, so they > are easier (and the piston is not asymetric, I dont' think). Rears are the > same as all ATE dual piston calipers, but the pistons are small -- I could > push them in by hand on the TE. > > Reminds me that I think the rears are dragging on the 300D (again) -- time > to pull the pads, check them out, and clean them up again. I like to do > this every oil change, but was busy this time. > > Peter > > > On Feb 28, 2009, at 11:24 AM, E M wrote: > > Hi Peter, >> >> Is this more or less the same procedure for the calipers on a W124 ? >> >> I'm starting to make my Spring time to do list. :-) >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ed >> 300E >> >> 2009/2/28 Peter Frederick <psf...@earthlink.net> >> >> Yeah... >>> >>> Remove caliper. Pry out the fried dust sheild. Note location of shield >>> and the raised portion of the piston lip. Clean the caliper completely >>> with >>> a brass brush and brake parts cleaner -- don't get any crap into the >>> brake >>> line fitting. You must have the pad slots completely clean anyway. >>> >>> Since these are in decent, if leaking shape, you can then pry off the >>> torn >>> and leaking dust boot and use a pair of screwdrivers to pry up on the >>> piston >>> and remove it (there are two, one on each side -- do one at a time). >>> >>> Be carefull to pry straight out. You can also use LOW air pressure by >>> clamping one piston at a time with a C-clamp to pop the other one out. >>> 10 >>> psi, Max,-- >>> >>> When the piston it out, clean it up with a shop rag and some brake parts >>> cleaner. NO ABRASIVES. Should clean up well. If corroded, scratched, >>> or >>> gouged, replace the caliper. Pits above the seal with the piston all the >>> way in can be ignored, though. >>> >>> Inside the bore of the caliper is a square seal in a slot. Use a bent >>> pick >>> to remove this -- likely rather hard by now -- and DO NOT GOUGE THE BORE. >>> A >>> scratch will require a new caliper.... >>> >>> Clean with brake parts cleaner, and if there is rust and corrosion built >>> up >>> above the seal slot, you can remove it with ScotchBrite IF you do not >>> touch >>> the rest of the bore. NO ABRASIVES IN THE BORE -- the caliper will >>> stick. >>> I like to use a hard scraper instead. There must be clearance for the >>> piston -- must fall right down to the seal, no drag. >>> >>> Flush VERY well if you had to use scotchbrite on the outer lip -- any >>> grit >>> between the bore and piston will cause it to stick. I prefer to scrape >>> with >>> a hard scraper, but you still have to clean like a nut. >>> >>> Install the new seal after coating it with brake fluid. Don't use >>> anything >>> sharp to push it in place, or you will have to get a new one when you >>> slice >>> it. Wipe some brake fluid onto the piston and place it in correct >>> orientation (which is why it's nice to do one at a time) and press it >>> down >>> with a thin piece of wood put through the caliper. You may need to rock >>> it >>> back and forth a tiny bit to get it over the seal initially, but it will >>> drop down with minimal pressure once the seal is on the chrome part of >>> the >>> piston. >>> >>> Install the new dust boot -- this is the worst part as you wont' have the >>> fancy tool to press it down over the outer edge. A thin wood strip works >>> well for me, but it's still a pain. >>> >>> Place the new heat shield into the piston and carefully press into place. >>> Be sure you have it aligned correctly before you push the center down, >>> as >>> it's impossible to get them back out without bending them all to bits. >>> >>> Repeat for the other side. >>> >>> Install calipers and new pads. Put a smear of anti-seize on the back of >>> the pad where the piston touches, and along the sides of the backing >>> plate >>> on both sides (NOT on the friction material). This prevents squeal and >>> keeps the corrosion down on the pad slots so the pads don't stick. >>> >>> And, ALWAYS, replace the rotors if there is a distinct lip at the outer >>> edge. There is very little margin for excessive wear on those rotors, >>> and >>> if they are showing a distinct lip, the backing plate on the pads will >>> hit >>> the anti-rattle spring before the friction material is worn off. When >>> this >>> happens, the pistons will become cocked in the bore and stick, causing >>> the >>> brakes to drag. The resultant heat will fry the dust boot, allowing dirt >>> and water into the bore, and wreck the caliper. >>> >>> Peter >>> >>> On Feb 27, 2009, at 9:15 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: >>> >>> Anybody got a step by step on caliper repair? >>> >>>> Hammie the '83 240D went to my Indy's last week for the brake pedal >>>> going >>>> to the floor. Turns out the rear calipers which I didn't replace last >>>> summer >>>> were leaking bad. One of the front calipers I did replace last summer is >>>> leaking a little... >>>> I had him replace the rears, I figure I'll deal with the front myself. >>>> >>>> Originally I'd planned to rebuild the old fronts anyway so I figured >>>> this >>>> was a good way to start, then take the ones I'd bought and shove 'em up >>>> the >>>> kid's nose at Advance Auto. Then it occured to me I'd probably be better >>>> to >>>> throw a rebuild kit into the leaker myself. I'll probably even learn >>>> something before I'm done. >>>> >>>> -Curt >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- >>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>>> URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/ >>>> attachments/20090227/6f7d063e/attachment.html> >>>> _______________________________________ >>>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com >>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >>>> >>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________ >>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/ >> attachments/20090228/4188e235/attachment.html> >> _______________________________________ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> > > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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