Tom Scordato wrote:
FYI A few threads have been flying back and forth on battery lonevity and as
the cold approaches:
Last winter as part of my overnight routine not having a garage/heated
garage, I used a small heating pad which I picked up at Walmart or $15.00 or
so. It is one WITHOUT the autoshut off, works on 110volt, single phase, 60
hertz and has three heat setting with a little light on the switch. I would
wrap it over top of the battery and foe and aft sides and cover with an old
thermal underwear shirt for insulation. When it was near zero degrees, took
temp of inside near batter skin, and it was a cozy 55 to 60 degrees F after
sitting all night on medium stetting.
It is my understanding that cold cranking amps are reduced by cold (and hot)
temp, and with my old 617.9XX non turbo engine being very cold blooded, this
really helps on the cold mornings. When it is really cold I also combine
this routine with standard block heater 400 or so watts (which I need in
varous time durations when it is in the high 30s or less), and a magnetic
lube 200 watt oil heater placed on the oil pan when engine temp is up. This
combined with synthetic oil is starting is pretty full proof. I have not
converted to non filament, non in series glow plugs yet but am sure that
would be an improvement as well.
Regards Tom Scordato
1977 300D 256K
Bellefonte PA
The battery warmer and the block heater are both very useful. The sump
heater is almost useless (if you're using a Mobil synthetic) until temps
get down into the 40 below zero (F) range. The biggest improvement to
cold weather starting you can make after synthetic oil is to change the
glow plugs to the parallel style plugs.
Half of the heat generated with a series plug system is OUTSIDE the
engine being dissipated into the air from the double "S" shaped
resistance wires that connect the plugs. When you switch to parallel
plugs, all of the heat that is generated is delivered to the prechamber
where it actually does some good. If you have a properly rated battery
in good condition using parallel plugs and Mobil synthetic oil there is
NO reason why the engine should not start down to 10 below zero (F). The
battery warmer and the block heater will extend that by at least another
15-20 degrees (as long as the fuel is still liquid and NO water has
accumulated in the fuel system).
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology 1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]