Thanks for this, Jaime.
There is indeed a cable in my accelerator set-up. It runs from the pedal
to the physical linkages you mention.
In fact there are two cables, but the second runs from the idle adjustor
knob.
So, ATF it is then. Not light lubricating oil.
I was planning to use a syringe and needle to force the oil down the cable.
Might do my push-bike cables at the same time.
I'll report back
Cheers
Euan
Important point here: There are no cables on your throttle linkage.
Its all mechanical linkage.
As others have said, ATF is the lubricant to use. You should first
take several pictures of the linkage so you can put it back the way it
was before you started.
Then, remove each piece one by one. Clean both ball and socket using
a tooth brush, end of a rag, or anything else that might get into the
sockets. Use ATF as the cleaner as well as lube.
Finally, remove the accelerator pedal. There is a clip at the bottom
where it connects to the floor. Slide it off the linkage shaft it
rides on... lubricate the shaft with some white grease. You might need
to replace the little plastic piece on the back of the pedal that
rides on the shaft... its cheap. In fact, the whole pedal is cheap if
its falling apart.
Before starting the engine... carefully check the linkage is installed
properly, returns to idle by itself, and has full range of motion.
Jaime
On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 8:17 PM, Euan<goneb...@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
Gentlemen
The answer to this question is probably 'get new cables'. But here goes
anyway.
I want to lubricate the two accelerator cables in my 300TD engine bay. Dry
cables (now 400+ K miles old) may be contributing to occasional failures of
my accelerator to return to idle. I've replaced associated struts and have
lubricated all the mini ball-joints in the linkages.
I'm loathe to use WD40 which is the most likely to run freely between inner
and outer. But how do you get light lubricating oil to run down the length
of the cable?
Cheers
Euan
Christchurch
NZ
1985 W123 300TD 5-spd manual
221K miles
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