There is always option C. Removing the cam lobes/retaining nut/spring on
number one and rotating engine until the valves dont drop in the
engine... I would take this over pulling prechambers any day...
-Rolf
On 11/09/2010 07:47 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
I'm with Peter on this one. First chain replacement I ever did was on
almost the same engine (OM617.912) and I also managed to skip a tooth,
but checked my work, found the problem, and corrected it. If you don't
want to pull the pre-chamber (I didn't either), I think you'll have to
determine "skip" or "not skip" by experimentation. Rotate the engine
through several complete revolutions by hand to make sure there's no
piston/valve interference, button up and drive the car and judge the
power output. If not satisfactory, move chain one tooth on camshaft
gear, verify no interference between pistons/valves, then check the
power output for improvement. Decide which position is better.
I'll bet that your harmonic balancer is fine and is reading true.
-Max
-----Original Message-----
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 8:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position
Yes, you can remove the bottom oil pan. Messy, but should work.
You can also pull the #1 prechamber and use something like a coat hanger
wire to determine when the piston is at TDC. Even just pulling the
injector or glow plug should let you know if you are close. Stops
blowing and starts sucking in air at TDC on the compression stroke.
Or you can assume you have jumped a tooth, which is rather common --
I've done it twice. I believe they are 13 degrees each, so it ads up
pretty well, and you would be within 2 degrees if you move the cam
sprocket.
It will run just fine, although low on power with the cam 15 degrees
late. 15 advance and the pistons hit the valves.
Peter
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