I think he wants to pull the engine, not replace the mounts. He's shocked to
find that there are shocks on the engine -

Ed, I don't think there's much different between the turbo 617 and your 616
engine, as far as R&R is concerned.
The shifter stays in the car, one rod gets disconnecte3d from the side of
the tranny (if auto) before you pull the combo out. You only need to
disconnect the accelerator linkage at one point - closest to the forewall
that you can get (memory is failing me here for details). Look around the
engine for connections to it, like the oil cooler lines, power steering,
etc., sme with wires, mark them on both sides of where you will disconnect
them, and go for it.

Anything you miss will become apparent as you lift the engine!  OK, - that's
not the best advise, but it works.

On Tue, Apr 12, 2011 at 9:47 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> MOtor mounts and engine shocks are not that difficult.  Put a block on top
> of a jack and under the oil pan.  Loosen the big bolts on each side motor
> mount.  jack up the engine half an inch or so.  remove the allen bolts
> holding the motor mounts to the frame.  Pull out the old mounts, put in the
> new.
>
> Now the caveat.  I think a 123 is pretty easy.  that last I did was a 115,
> and the right side was a bear., and on it the motor mounts , it was very
> hard to get the mount loose from the subframe.  If I remember right,, there
> were two bolts and nuts in place of the allen screws into the subframe.  On
> a 616, I think you can do it all from above.  with a 617,  especially turbo,
>  you may need to get underneath to do the mounts.
>
> Shocks are pretty simple.  one nut top and bottom.  shaft has a flat to
> hold it with a small wrench while you take the nut off.
>
>
>
> --
>
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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