Thanks for putting the "generator hat" on! I ran a crude spreadsheet calculation against the propane generators on Amazon, and found this one - almost too good to be true -- http://www.amazon.com/Sportsman-GEN7000LP-7000-Watt-Portable-Generator/dp/B004BKI0ZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314673188&sr=8-1
It produces 8.86 watts/$, vs. a Generac 7kW at 3.89 watts/$. On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 7:52 PM, LWB250 <lwb...@yahoo.com> wrote: > <Generator hat on> > > The whole thing when it comes to stationary standby generators is > determining what your critical loads are. Until you do that, you're just > flailing around. > > Make a list of "must have" loads and write down their wattages. > > The worst case ones will be small, fractional horsepower motors, like sump > pumps and furnace blowers. Single phase motors are horribly inefficient > when it comes to starting current, so you've got to have enough reserve to > handle their inrush current. > > From there look at things like fridge, freezer, basic lighting, garage door > opener, etc. > > Generac and other manufacturers have some good sizing programs on the Web > that allow you to do the calculations. Just keep in mind that these are > general values and not 100% accurate. It's a guide to give you an idea of > what you need capacity-wise. > > Once you know what you need kW-wise you can start looking. > > Stationary sets run off propane vapor or natural gas. Be careful when > shopping, as propane has a much higher BTU content than natural gas, so > machines are often rated on propane with deration percentages if it's on > natural gas. Usually you'll see a 10%-15% deration on natural gas. > > Install often equals the cost of the unit, so be prepared. If you can do > any of it yourself this is the place where you can save some serious bucks. > You will need a licensed electrician to do your transfer switch, unless > you're doing downstream of your main breaker. This is typical, as a branch > circuit will be run to a transfer switch that feeds a small distribution > panel where your critical loads have been broken out from the main panel. > > While it's more expensive, it's foolish (in my opinion) to go with a > stationary generator and not have an automatic transfer switch (ATS). Think > about if you are away, and the power goes out. If it's an extended outage, > you risk food loss, possible damage to your home depending on the climate > and season, etc. Sure, it's a peace of mind thing, but the additional cost > is minimal in the grand scheme of things. > > Generac has really dialed in the consumer home standby market, and done a > good job with it. You'll find their products marketed at all the big box > home improvement stores under the "Guardian" brand, among others. They have > done a very good job of balancing the price point vs. quality and longevity. > You can go more expensive, such as a Kohler, but even though I have some > bias as a former employee of both, the Kohler is a premium product that > effectively does the exact same thing the Generac does. > > Maintenance is the key to longevity on these, just as it is on your MB, and > it doesn't take any special tools or knowledge. Change oil and filters > annually and keep it clean and you're pretty much done with it. > > If anyone has specific questions they are welcome to send me a PM. > > Dan > > </Generator hat off> > > > > -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
