I've had really good results using the method, as a one man solution. Hope
it solves your problem.
My results have most often been a full hard brake in two pumps after
"filling the system backwards".  The first time takes a bit longer while you
putz around with finding tubing the right size and connecting it all up...
after that I find it's faster than anything else I've used with much less
mess. [put the cover on the master but loose while pumping or you will
squirt brake fluid up and splash it in the engine compartment, trust me on
that.;)) ]

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 5:37 AM, Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com>wrote:

> Grant,
>  Brilliant idea.  I have a VW Bug that runs about 12.5 seconds in the1/4
> mile but seems to take a 1/2 mile to stop after replacing every brake part
> and going through gallons of brake fluid trying different methods of
> bleeding.  I am going to the parts store asap to get the oil pump can and I
> am certain your method will finally get the job done.
>
> Thanks, Mike
> Who wishes he had mines big enough to park his M37's in.
> On Sep 4, 2011 7:27 PM, "G Mann" <g2ma...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Over the past 40 years I have owned, I believe, every pressure bleed
> brake
> > system, vacuum bleed system, and every other crackpot tool invented to
> bleed
> > brakes. They now all reside on my tool collection board of tools that
> cost
> > loads of money, don't work well [or not at all] and "I would never buy
> > again.
> >
> > Some years ago I started using a system that DOES work well, Doesn't cost
> > much, and so far hasn't failed me. It allows me to bleed both hydraulic
> > clutch systems and brake systems without a helper, truly one man. Since I
> > started using it, I now change out the hydraulic fluids as a regular
> > scheduled item.
> >
> > Here is how it works for me:
> >
> > 1. Open the master cylinder cover, lay a clean cloth over it [stray
> > dirt/bugs/etc are forbidden]
> >
> > 2.
> > Hook a common squeeze bulb [like you siphon gas into your lawn mower
> with]
> > to the bleed nipple farthest from the master cylinder [play with fuel
> line
> > hose sizes to get it done for your particular application]... drop the
> exit
> > hose into a receiving container [you are going to dispose of it right?]
> If
> > you already have a hand vacuum pump with a receiver bottle... that can
> work
> > as well.
> >
> > 3. Squeeze pump the old fluid out of the master cylinder till it's empty,
> > repeat operation 2. for each bleed nipple to evacuate each line from the
> > master to wheel cylinder.
> >
> > 4. Wipe clean all the "gunk" left inside the Master Cylinder. [I often
> use
> > spray brake cleen at this point to get all the slime, then carefully dry
> it
> > out]
> >
> > 5. Using an old fashioned metal hand pump oil can [like your grandfather
> > had... they are still available... cost maybe $5... and never use it for
> > oil... just this] fill it with brake fluid.. attach a properly sized
> length
> > of fuel hose to the squirt tube and the other end to the brake bleed
> nipple.
> > I like to use a generous length here so I can work outside the wheel
> instead
> > of under the car...
> >
> > 6. Lay the cover loosely over the Master Cylinder.. [CAUTION.. if you do
> not
> > do this you will have brake fluid where you do not want it,, plus a mess
> to
> > clean up]
> >
> > 7. Start pumping brake fluid backwards from the nipple... to the master
> > cylinder... start at the longest line run first... WATCH FOR FLUID AT THE
> > MASTER CYLINDER... it will come nicely.. DO NOT fill the master from only
> > one nipple....
> >
> > 8. Go to the next longest line.. pump brake fluid same way... increase
> fluid
> > amount in Master cylinder... go to next longest.. etc etc...
> >
> > 9. Of course, close each nipple when you are done pumping at that
> station.
> > Top off the Master Cylinder to required level...
> >
> > 10. Brakes are now bled... all air has been pushed from lowest point to
> > highest point.. a direction of travel that follows laws of nature and
> > physics..
> >
> > Total cost for tools... something less than $15. System how has clean
> fluid
> > from top to bottom... SHMBO has not been disturbed or irritated with
> "pump
> > it more" commands. [you know how well that is received... in summer heat
> or
> > winter cold right?]
> >
> > CAUTION:.. DO NOT let the pump can run out of fluid. Check the Master
> > Cylinder often, [ie. don't over fill it, easy to do with this system] If
> > that should happen, just suck some out with your hand squeeze bulb into
> the
> > receiving container. Check the pump can also. If you pump air instead of
> > fluid because you let the can run empty.. you get to start over....
> > OOOooooppppssss...
> >
> > Works for me... HTH,,,[Hope This Helps,]
> >
> > Grant...
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 4, 2011 at 3:40 PM, Max Dillon <meadedil...@bellsouth.net
> >wrote:
> >
> >> I have both pressure bleeder and mity vac, the pressure bleeder is
> great.
> >> However, when installing a new master cylinder, I run a line from
> bleeder
> >> valve on nearest caliper back to the reservoir, fill the reservoir, and
> pump
> >> the fluid around in a circle (master cylinder to caliper via hard brake
> >> line, caliper back to reservoir via tube from bleeder valve) until no
> more
> >> bubbles are present, then pressure or gravity bleed to make sure all the
> air
> >> is out.
> >>
> >> Max
> >> --
> >> Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
> >>
> >> Jerry Herrman <jer...@san.rr.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Now, I will start out by acknowledging that this question is premature
> in
> >> that I have done no research or checking before asking this question.
> >>
> >> Is there a "one-size-fits-all" brake bleeder? I have various cars
> spannning
> >> the last 50 years, and each seems to have a different master cylinder
> (M/C)
> >> configuration. The cars are listed below.
> >> Having recently changed a M/C, and having spent considerable time
> bleeding
> >> the brakes by the tried and true "pump the brake pedal by myself"
> method,
> I
> >> thought surely a pressurized bleeder would save time and aggravation.
> >> Is this true? Is it easy to work? Can I have one bleeder which will do
> them
> >> all?
> >> Confession time - I have never changed brake fluid, unless it was
> necessary
> >> after opening the system and replacing parts I would like now to be able
> to
> >> do this on a regular basis.
> >>
> >> Jerry
> >>
> >> 82 MB 240D
> >> 60 Olds
> >> 72 Ford F250
> >> 91 Volvo 240
> >> 05 Odyssey (wife made me buy it)
> >> 07 Highlander (wife's car)
> >>
> >>
> >> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
> signature
> >> database 6435 (20110904) __________
> >>
> >> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
> >>
> >> http://www.eset.com
> >>
> >> _____________________________________________
> >>
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