I put a hex key socket/impact wrench on the shaft end, and a box end
on the nut. Got it up pretty close to 80 ft/lb and stopped when (cheap)
allen key in end of shaft began to strip.
Think maybe the 4 year old battery is bad since the cell hydrometer
readings won't go up after charging a few hours. Getting a new battery
this PM.
Thanks,
Gerry
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Yeah, I went through the same thing. The answer was to just put the
pulley on and tighten the nut. Your number of 80 is about right. I
got mine as tight as i could, and it has been ok.
From: "Allan Streib" <str...@cs.indiana.edu>
I use the rattle-wrench to remove and tighten the alternator pully nut.
I've had one (FLAPS-branded) rebuild come with a keyed shaft; the
Bosch rebuilds don't in my experience. Doesn't seem to really matter
in practice.
Allan
On Fri, Jan 27, 2012, at 03:20 PM, Hendrik & Fay wrote:
Basically as tight as you can get it with a new spring washer fitted.
Had an pulley come loose because supposed auto sparky used old spring
washer, which was doing a very good impersonation of a flat washer.
Drove me batty trying to track down the noise it made because fan belt
transferred noise to other side of engine.
Hendrik who is batty enough
Gerry Archer wrote:
> Yep, they are stuck pretty tight. Always used rebuilt alternators
> before which had keys. This is the first new one. Hope this one
> lasts longer than the rebuilts (the slip rings became grooved and
> the voltage became low on the rebuilts). Can't find the torque for
> the shaft nut on alternators on the MB CD or 'net. Seem to remember
> that the torque on American car alternators was about 110 Nm (80
> ft/lb). Correct torque might be more important without a key.
> Thanks, Gerry
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