Yes - 4.0.  The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator.  I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures.  I'm hoping most/all of the
air is out of the system.  I filled the heater core with fresh distilled
water from the from one supply line which has an L-shaped bend near the
thermostat housing.  After filling up, I took it for a test drive and the
expansion tank dropped a few inches, but still had coolant in it.  I have
since filled it up to the Full mark.

Does a rising/lowering expansion tank fluid level indicate that air has
been purged from the pressurized part of the system?


On Sun, Jun 3, 2012 at 10:54 AM, Peter Hertzing <phertz...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
> about a cherekee with a 4 liter.  It is a very difficult cooling system to
> bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
> engine - best I can remember.  The only way I have every been abel to
> properly bleed the system is to put a flushing port at the high point of
> that hose.  One of those deals that you would attach your hose to.  Then
> you fill the system the the cap to that loose untill coolant comes out of
> it and then tighten it up.  I have also used it as a port to fill the
> system.
>
> Best of luck - I'm sure you can get more info using the power of the
> internet.  Kind of a common problem as I Recall.
>
> Peter
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 9:41 PM, John Reames <jwrea...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
> >
> > --
> > John W Reames
> > jream...@verizon.net
> > Home: +14106646986
> > Mobile: +14437915905
> >
> > On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano <brian.tosc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
> > > spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be
> > the
> > > way it came from the factory.  I don't think the spring itself is
> > rusting -
> > > it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it.  I didn't
> try
> > > to remove the spring because I didn't want to distort it.  I think
> > changing
> > > the lower hose would eliminate some build up in the part of the spring
> I
> > > could not clean.  As an example, if I pull on the spring and rinse
> water
> > > through the house, It takes a few seconds for the water to be perfectly
> > > clear again.  Maybe the rust came from the head, not the block?  Both
> are
> > > cast iron.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Rich Thomas <
> > > richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Maybe those springs?
> > >>
> > >> --R
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator.
> > >>> What
> > >>> came out first was bright green.  After a little bit, it turns rusty
> > >>> brown,
> > >>> and then turned to dirty coolant.  This was just draining.  Likewise,
> > what
> > >>> is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured
> > clean
> > >>> water into the heater core, what came out was rust colored.  What I
> > >>> removed
> > >>> the water pump what I saw was dirty coolant, but the inside of the
> > engine
> > >>> (outside of the cylinder wall for #1) looks perfectly fine and
> > rust-free.
> > >>> It makes me think the coolant does separate as it cools.
> > >>>
> > >>> The water pump itself looks fine also.  A gasket leak developed on
> the
> > top
> > >>> of the pump after I did the first round of flushing.
> > >>>
> > >>> What has the most crap buildup are the heater hoses.  The supply and
> > >>> return to the heater core have a rust buildup inside.  The lower
> > radiator
> > >>> hose has a large spring in it almost the entire length and that
> spring
> > >>> holds a ton of crap.  It makes me wonder where all this rust comes
> > from if
> > >>> the inside of the engine looks fine.
> > >>>
> > >>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:39 AM, Brian Toscano<brian.toscano@gmail.
> > **com<brian.tosc...@gmail.com>
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant.
>  The
> > >>>> bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant
> tester.
> > >>>> However, what's in the expansion tank is darker.  The original
> problem
> > >>>> has
> > >>>> been fixed.  The flushing I did definitely helped.  I'm not
> expecting
> > >>>> 100%
> > >>>> perfectly new looking coolant in 11 year old engine with cast iron
> > block
> > >>>> and head.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:26 PM, Max<meadedil...@bellsouth.net>
> >  wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to
> > >>>>> compare side by side;  it's awfully hard to judge color inside a
> dark
> > >>>>> radiator.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Did you fix the original problem?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I think your flushing method failed.
> > >>>>> --
> > >>>>> Max Dillon
> > >>>>> Charleston SC
> > >>>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> > >>>>> _______________________
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> ______________________________**_________
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